Got a new project yesterday.  I bought motorcop's partially completed Krag.  It gives me a head start on building a Krag for vintage matches.  It already has a new barrel installed and it has an original stock.  I loosely assembled everything last night and it sure is a pretty rifle with nice metal and wood.  Plus, I met a really nice and knowledgeable guy.  Thanks motorcop!

I saw the rifle listed in the KCA Classifieds. It looked like a nice deal. Congrats!

Awesome!  You can certainly join us on the firing line next year at Perry!

I might make it to Perry next year but will probably only shoot a Garand and an A4. 

Looking for some disassembly/assembly guides for the trigger/sear and cutoff.  I've not found anything past a bolt disassembly.  Any tips?

How to remove Cut-Off Lever from Receiver.

(p.s. - Don't take the Cut-Off Lever sub-assembly apart! The small Detent-Pin and its Spring are peened into place and intended to be 'captured parts')!

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The Krag trigger/sear assembly is easy to take apart, but, difficult to re-install. The small trigger spring is quite strong!

It may be a bit easier to re-install, if the trigger and sear are separated. (Pin is driven left to right).

Always Remember - "Krags breed character(s) and strong fingers" !

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Great pics and diagram!  The trigger/sear on the rifle is disassembled.  I was confused by the "hole" in the end of the sear.  The cutoff was also removed for the installation of a receiver sight.

Question: I was planning on installing a 1902 rear sight due to the ease of adjustment (I think) but the rifle came with a 1901 sight and matching handguard.  If I use the 1902 I'll have to get a handguard.  For actual range/match use, are either of these sights better than the other?

Rear sight is a matter of 'taste'. Some shooters like the Buffington inspired model 1901 sight and others like the model 1902. IMHO - Start with what you have.

I like a 1902 or 1898 ramp, with a V-notch cut into the eyepiece.  Such customizing is allowed.  I've used the 1901 sight too, but I think it's a lot easier to make windage adjustments on the line simply by turning a knob in the direction you want the bullet to go vs loosening a lever then looking down to see what direction you move, and guessing how much.  I'm wearing glasses that allow me to focus on the front sight, I can't see the hashmarks on the rear sight without a different set of glasses!   Oh, and don't forget to relock the lever before reshouldering the rifle.

I prefer the 1902 as well.  The notch is certainly useable... but if you use the Sgt Peep as I do, you can enlarge it legally per CMP rules by as much as 0.1"  The original diameter is 0.04, but I enlarged mine to 0.07 and it made a world of difference!

My 2 Cents - I have not been shooting my Krags in competition like 'psteinmayer' and 'madsenshooter'. Their input and experience is quite valuable.

My Krag shooting has been at 50 and 100 yards (slow fire).

My preference has been the 'U' notch of the model 1902 sight. I like simplicity, kind of a 'woods hunting snap shooting mindset'.

The "Sgt. Peep" definitely needs an enlarged sighting hole. It is also relatively easy for me to 'bump' the peep out of its locked position, so I don't like to use it.

(FWIW - It is possible to get a spare model 1902 'peep' plate and screw from S&S Firearms for a reasonable price. It appears to me an original model 1898/1902 hand-guard is now getting harder to find and quite expensive).

If I was shooting a Krag at 200, 300, and 600 yards, in competition, I suspect, I might prefer the model 1901 sight. This is why I suggest trying 'what you have', before investing $200 in a different sight and hand-guard.

(If you want a good built in excuse, for 'throwing' an occasional Flyer or messing up in 'rapid fire', get a model 1898 'three-notch' sight)!

Peoples' eye-sight and rifle sight preferences certainly vary.

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Thanks for the comments.  I had already purchased a 1902 but when I saw the 1901 and realized it had a peep in the ladder I had second thoughts.  I'm going to put the barreled action in a couple different stocksets and see how she shoots with a receiver sight.  As soon as I get some 8-32 sight screws I'll try out both OEM sights.

I've had good results with a Krag sporter using rounds loaded with Varget and 4064.  Anything besides 4895 and 4064 has to be purchased online and I always buy 16-20# to spread the shipping expense out.  Next time I get up an order I'm going to get some 4350.  I assume the slower powder works better than the others with the 220 grain?

Yep... 4350 is the Go-To powder for 220 grains.  However, that is for Jacketed bullets.  The rules for cast are a little different.

Well, I was able to find and purchase a box of Krag Ammo. I got it today and went to load it on my Krag only to find out the magazine tray loader doesn't work. So I started researching. I learned about the cutoff switch and made sure it was in the up position. Still a no go. Took the rifle apart and began a comparison between my feeder tray and the photos on my Krag manual. Come to find out my rifle is missing the magazine-follower-spring. I just ordered one. It doesn't surprise me as the rifle was in pretty bad shape when I bought it. The barrel was badly pitted and the rifle was full of rust and filthy and the stock had lots of scratches and chips taken off of it. It looked like a piece of shit and my wife gave me a doubtful stare when I bought it. Anyway, I got it fixed up reasonably well for my non-mechanical abilities.

So now I'm asking if anyone has a diagram in how to put the magazine spring on.

Thanks.

'Max1066_33' - I'm a little skeptical. There is one spring that powers the follower-arm, while also, tensioning the magazine-gate (door).

If your magazine-gate snaps shut and stays shut, it is likely the curved-flat spring is in place. (I suppose it is possible that the front tip could be broken off this spring or the spring is not installed properly).

The spring resides in a channel, machined along the lower right-side of the receiver. The spring is hidden behind the hinge of the magazine-gate.

With the barreled/action out of the Stock:

You have to carefully remove the hinge-pin, while keeping the magazine-gate pressed in its 'closed' position. This is most easily done with the left side-plate removed from the receiver.

A large "C" Clamp or Vise can be used to hold the Receiver and Magazine-Gate in place, while removing the hinge-pin. (I'm able to do this bare-handed).

If you resort to clamping, be sure to protect your Krag's metal with leather or thin pieces of wood, from being scratched.

The hinge-pin can usually be wiggled and pulled out to the front by hand, penetrating oil helps.

The 2nd attached photo shows hinge-pin rotated so that 'cover' is open. Tip of spring is visible where it engages 'cam/pivot' on follower-arm. Schematic shows basic positioning of parts.

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Well my Ammo doesn't feed and there is no tension on the piece that pushes the rounds in and up so the bolt can grab the round. So I figured the spring is either missing or broken.

I guess you will have to take it apart and see.

Took it apart and found the spring snapped in half. So now to put in the new one.

Cool, easy fix! (That spring doesn't break very often).

Did your broken spring still put friction on the loading-gate hinge and keep the gate securely closed?

No the old spring gave zero tension. But all is good now. I have twenty 30-40 rounds and I'll probably go next and shoot it for the first time.