I'm trying to fix a poor bedding job done on a Krag sporter with a Fajen stock.  I could use some pointers from those who have been around the block more times than I have.

Can someone tell me where the barrel and action should contact a sporter stock?
I think:
Rear of magazine should draw down solidly on the wood when front trigger guard screw is tightened.
Barrel should lie in the bottom of the barrel channel even when the rear trigger guard screw is snug.

Where should the receiver contact the stock to transfer recoil?  Is it the rear vertical magazine surfaces or the tang where the rear trigger guard screw is?

Thanks!

gunboat57:  I think you are pretty much on track.  The vertical rear wall of the magazine housing should make contact with wood.

Well, if the rear of the magazine should be in "recoil contact" with the stock then I've got some work to do!  I've got about 1/16" clearance behind both the left and right sides.  It's a wonder this stock never split since the recoil was being transfered only by the tang at the wrist.

A bit of backstory may be in order.  I took this sporter to the range today for the first time.  At 50 yds my 5 shot group was about 6" in diameter.  This is shooting off a sandbag.  The rifling is sharp, crown is good, throat not washed out, sights not loose, so I figured it must be the bedding.
I took the action out of the stock and dripped a small bead of candle wax down the centerline from the end of the fore stock back to the trigger slot.  Installed and removed the action and what do you know, the wax wasn't mashed down anywhere except right at the front trigger guard screw.  Turns out the barrel wasn't resting in the bottom of the channel but was contacting high on the sides.  No wonder things were shifting around from shot to shot.
I measured the barrel contour along its length and wrapped sandpaper around various sized socket wrench sockets in order to open up the channel.  Now the barrel rests solidly in the channel along its length.
Now to shim the wood behind the magazine.  Popsicle sticks come to mind for material.  We'll see.

Try copper or brass plates.

gunboat57:  I suppose some epoxy bedding would be an easier way to get some contact between the rear of the magazine and stock.  you might also consider having a recoil lug or steel bushing brazed to your barrel in the area where you have added a barrel anchoring screw.  Such a lug or bushing, added to your barrel and inletted into the wood, will tame rearward movement in the stock.

Your suggestion about using brass may work out for the right rear side of the magazine.  I measured the gap and it was uniformly about .031", just the thickness of some brass strip I have.
But on the left side the gap is not uniform at all so I might resort to filling with JB Weld and filing to fit.

For what it's worth, some of the most accurate target rifles have no contact what-so-ever in the forward stock area.  This is not a problem when the stock is properly fitted to the action, as Butlersrangers stated... but if there is clearance around the reciever area too, then the action is supported by the trigger guard screws alone, and that would be very bad!  My sporter has a heavy stock, especially in the wrist area.  There is no connection between the forstock and the barrel, but the receiver is very tight in the stock.  I have never had a problem shooting this Krag, although being a cut down, it's not as accurate as it would be with a full length barrel.  Still, it's fun to shoot!   ;D