'bote' - Unless you are trying to match a Krag bayonet to the approximate acceptance or production time of a specific rifle, or one that was likely used in the SAW, the date is not too important.

The Krag bayonets were issued 'in the white' (no metal finish). The edge was not sharpened.

Look for one that has a pleasing clean appearance or patina and precise 'blood groove' & manufactured surfaces.

Avoid 'polished', chromed, wire-wheeled, bent or damaged tip, sharpened blade, heavily rusted or pitted, and specimens with sanded or badly damaged grips.

Minor surface rust can be removed with #0000 steel-wool saturated with Hoppe's #9.

Buy an example that comes with a scabbard.

The metal scabbard should be free of dents and have a 'browned' (blued) finish. Type of scabbard should be appropriate for the bayonet date.

Very early scabbards had a simple 'hook'. Most scabbards have a more complicated sheet-metal & dual spring-wire hanger. This allowed the two ends of the heavy wire 'bail' to be released and then secured over the canvas Mills Belt and snapped back into place.

The rivet anchoring the hanger to the scabbard should be tight, so that rotation of the scabbard on the hanger is limited.

Krag bayonets were never carried in leather picket-pin cases. (Sellers often have this arrangement For-Sale and it is Bogus)!

It is realistic to obtain a nice Krag Bayonet and Scabbard for under $200. This is probably best done at a decent Gun Show.

From my experience, Krag bayonets are a lot more common than the scabbards to hold them.