My 1898 rifle (the albatross, aka money pit) The wood broke out between the box magazine and the bolt handle.  I've glued it in place but need to make it more secure.  As I understand, drilling and inserting a oak dowel rod can achieve this intended result.  So do I use a Forester bit, drill from the top down, and glue in place?  1/4" or smaller dowel rod?
Vic

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Kerz wrote on Dec 29^th, 2018 at 11:26pm:

. . . do I use a Forester bit . . ?

Is that something like a Forstner bit?

;D

Since there's no stress in that area, couldn't you just epoxy it and that be good enough?

I'd keep it simple and use a small diameter 'hidden' vertical hole: Drilled on the inside of the stock, (where it is radiused for the action).

The hole would go through the glued piece and into the main stock.

Fill the hole with a 'pin' made from a Finish or 'serrated' nail (head cut off) and 'gooped up' with 'Acraglas'.

Make the pin short enough, so that it is recessed into the wood.   

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Great!  Thanks for the help.
Best of the New Year to All!
Vic

Hi, apparently that is a popular place to bread a stock.  Mine already has two pins, one on each side of the bolt.  This time just a sliver chipped off.  I was putting lemon oil on the stock and rubbed a bit hard I guess.  What is the best glue to use?  I have Elmer's wood clue and JB Weld Epoxy.  Any other recommendations?

While I'm typing, is it a good idea to coat the steel surfaces with Hoppe's CLP or with just Hoppe's oil?  I think I should coat the barrel where its under the wood.

Later

The Krag stock is very vulnerable to breaking and splitting in certain areas.

The small area of wood between the magazine and bolt handle recess is especially prone to breaking along the grain. (That is why I recommend reinforcing a glue repair with a pin).

I would use Brownell's Acrglas, both to glue the wood and bind the pin.

I like to protect gun metal (exposed and hidden) with a thin coat of RIG (Rust Inhibiting Grease).

You mind if I add your rifle to the KCA serial number database?