I’ve always followed the rule of full-length sizing new unfired brass. But as I intend to only do partial full-length sizing for the life of the brass, absent any huge dents or something, is there any reason not to just partial full length size right from the start?

I have partially 'neck sized' new brass in loading it for the first time, with good results.

I did check to make sure the partially sized cases would fit into the Krag's chamber and allow the bolt to close.

I also trim case length with a Lee .30-40 case trimmer, before loading. This makes for nice uniformity and precise Case Mouths.

I often neck-size my Krag Brass using a Lee Collet Die for 7.5mm Swiss. This only Sizes part of the Neck and is very easy on the Brass. (No pull of an 'expander-ball' through the sized neck).

Thanks, Butlersranger, checking to make sure they chamber is important. I’ll make sure I do that. The 7.5 Swiss collet die trick hadn’t occurred to me. I’ll look into that. I appreciate the advice.

I always neck size new brass just because a few of the necks are dented or a bit out of round.  I bought some BCC 30-40 Krag brass from Grafs that was a bit long to the shoulder and could have have stood a partial sizing.  I simply used my tightest chambered rifle to do.

If you do neck-size... remember to keep your brass assigned to the rifle it was shot in.  I always FL size new brass, and then neck size only afterward.  I also anneal often.  I've achieved more than 20 reloads on some of my older R-P brass... but I am occasionally getting neck cracks (at which point they go into the scrap can).

Remember... take care of your brass and it will take care of you!

Madsen, I found the same thing with the Captech/BCC brass. It was a little long in the shoulder, but the overall length was shorter than other brands.

Paul, I only have one Krag.....so far....so this should work for now. But when another Krag follows me home......

Paul, how often do you anneal? After how many firings, typically? My brass is still pretty new, but I'm thinking ahead. I keep my loads as light as I can. No reason to beat up my rifle or my shoulder.

Playapat... beware:  Krags tend to multiply in dark places when no one's looking!

Annealing is very simple, but there are several methods that people talk about.  The simplest way I know is to put the brass in a drill using a trim holder (LEE trimmer shell holders work excellent for this).  Rotate the brass slowly and heat the neck and shoulder area carefully using a butane torch until the brass starts to change color (remember, never to blue or glowing!).  Then I just drop them into a metal bowl and let 'em cool.  I've been doing it this way for years!

I typically try to anneal every 4 to 5 firings... or if I see a few cracked necks after a match.  The necks WILL eventually start to crack, but with annealing, it will happen way less frequent and brass will last much longer than if you don't.

Paul, I’m neck sizing my brass using a .308 Win die with a larger expander. I use 303 Brit for my krag scout build and real 30-40 for the Constabulary but my new 30 in rifle won’t chamber the Constabulary loads so I’ve broken into my new hornady brass for it. Only shot it a little with full length sized but have loaded a handfull of neck sized brass [after firing in the long bbl rifle] which chamber fine. Looks like I’ll have to keep my brass segregated between the two rifles. Do I still need to anneal if only neck sizing? Thx, Ed

It's still a good idea to anneal, even if only neck sizing (I always neck size after initial firing).  New brass comes annealed, so you could get a few firings in before you'd need to.

psteinmayer wrote on Apr 2^nd, 2019 at 1:11pm:

. . .The simplest way I know is to put the brass in a drill using a trim holder (LEE trimmer shell holders work excellent for this).  Rotate the brass slowly and heat the neck and shoulder area carefully using a butane torch until the brass starts to change color (remember, never to blue or glowing!).  Then I just drop them into a metal bowl and let 'em cool.  I've been doing it this way for years! . . .

My way is still simpler (as am I). Just hold case in fingers. If you smell meat cooking, you're getting 'em too hot! :-[

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Playapat wrote on Apr 2^nd, 2019 at 2:41am:

Paul, how often do you anneal? After how many firings, typically? My brass is still pretty new, but I'm thinking ahead. I keep my loads as light as I can. No reason to beat up my rifle or my shoulder.

I do molten salt bath annealing via the " Ballistic Recreations " setup. Salt bath consists of 60% Sodium nitrate and 40% potassium nitrate in a Lee lead melter pot and a steel jig to hold the brass pieces at the correct depth in the liquid hot magma...er... Salt bath :)

Heat to 950*f  immerse the neck/shoulder for 7-8 seconds. Pull out, toss into water bucket (beware of steam popping).

I anneal every firing on rifle brass designated for long range accuracy (7mm RemMag and 6.5 creedmoor). Anneal every 3rd firing for other rifle brass.

butlersrangers wrote on Apr 1^st, 2019 at 3:48am:

I have partially 'neck sized' new brass in loading it for the first time, with good results. I did check to make sure the partially sized cases would fit into the Krag's chamber and allow the bolt to close. I also trim case length with a Lee .30-40 case trimmer, before loading. This makes for nice uniformity and precise Case Mouths. I often neck-size my Krag Brass using a Lee Collet Die for 7.5mm Swiss. This only Sizes part of the Neck and is very easy on the Brass. (No pull of an 'expander-ball' through the sized neck).

I use a Lee collet die for my .303 British with good results. I also load 7.5 Swiss but I full length size them and have thought about getting a collet die instead. I emailed Lee today asking if the 7.5 die would work for the Krag and they told me no. So iam wondering how you’re doing or what kinda results you get

'Griff557' - Howdy!

I suspect the person at "Lee" did not understand that you meant 'Neck-Sizing' and not 'Full-Length Sizing' and did not give your question the consideration it deserved.

To answer your question, I took a Fired W-W .30-40 Cartridge Case, that has been fired several times. (The inside diameter of the 'fired' case-neck measured .310").

I put it in my .30-40 shell-holder and ran it into my 7.5mm Swiss Collet-Die. The Die was adjusted to De-cap the .30-40 Case, (no lube was needed).
There was no 'ball' pulling through the sized case-neck on the way out of the Die.

Most of the Case-Neck was reformed & the Case was de-capped. The rest of the Case Body made no contact with the Die. (The inside diameter of the Neck now measured .3055" to .306"). The Case-Mouth has a slight 'bell' to aid bullet seating. Easy Peasy!

I took a new W-W Case and 'smoked' the Neck in a candle flame. I ran that case into the Swiss Collet-Die with the same result.

Attached photo shows 'Die Action' (rub spots) on slightly tarnished 'Fired Case', Die Marks on 'Smoked Case', and recently loaded 'Neck-Sized' Case, (180 grain RN Sierra - OAL 3.086").

p.s. - I am blessed that my neck-sized ammo fits most of my Krag chambers, regardless of which one it was fired in.

Note - The photo makes the two 'empty' case-necks look larger than the loaded case. This is an illusion.

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