Hello to the forum: I picked this up and hope I can get some help from the pros. I thought the early bayonets should be in the brite. Does this look like a repo or possibly refinished? I know it is not a krag bayonet but maybe someone has some experience in this field. Thanks in advance, kc

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Gosh, I can't tell from the pictures- is it blued or Parkerized?

Looks like a nice bayonet, though.

Hopefully an experienced bayo collector will chime in.

I pretty sure it is a black parkerized finish.

Looks like a nice 1903 Springfield bayonet.

It went through two World Wars.

IMHO - It is a likely arsenal reconditioned bayonet.

Both the 1906 and 1912 dates were finished in the White (Bright) when new.  Springfield blued the blades in 1917, but only did so for a few years then changed to a parkerized finish.  The Parkerized finish for WWII was a pretty heavy finish and blades and all handle parts looked pretty much the same when done. When redone for WWII, the wood grips would have been changed out for the familiar black (or once in awhile brown) plastic. Your 1912 still shows some of the dark case color at the very end which was common for the bright blades.  The arsenal blue had no delineation between the blade and the hilt. In the photos you've provided, it's difficult to tell if the 1906 was blued or is just in need of a cleaning or both.  My guess in blued for WWI and in need of a cleaning.  The blue used for the bayonet was not a bright, shiny blue, but rather a more subdued, almost black look. The 1912 may still be "in the bright", but also in need of careful cleaning.  What, if any, sort of scabbards did you get with them?

I think Brophy's book on the 1903 Springfield covers the bayonets as well.  I haven't reviewed it in quite a while, but will if you need more complete information.

The scabbard on the 1906 bayonet is pretty rough. The 1912 one is in nice shape. Kind of hard to tell if its blued  or parkerized. I will try to give them a clean up.

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Hi King Carp,

As Olderthansome informed us above...your bayonet blade probably started out life in the white and eventually was blued/parkerized somewhere along the line.

Joe Poyer's book "The Model 1903 Springfield Rifle and it's Variations" seems to indicate that your bayonet was modified to what he calls the 2nd variation due to the letter "A" stamped on the pommel.  The second variation had to due with increasing the size of the catch, pommel drain hole and boss grip screw.

Also stated in Poyer's book is that all 2nd and 3rd variation bayonets returned for refurbishing between 1917 and 1918 had their blades blued to the tip.

After November 1918...all 1905 bayonets sent in for refurbishing were parkerized.

One of your bayonets has a 1917 scabbard which would seem to be incorrect but was actually authorized in 1920 as a substitute for the Model 10 scabbard.

You can use some form of leather conditioner like Pecard Leather Dressing to slow the decay on your leather scabbard.

1905 bayonets are HOT ITEMS on the market today!  The prices keep going up, up, up!

I'd say you have at least $450 to $550 worth of bayonets pictured! 

Thank you for the info. That's a nice surprise on their value! I bought a 1903 Springfield in the early eighties for half that price. I think It compliments the rifle nicely. Thanks again, kc

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Here are pictures of my PC rifle with the slightly beveled bayonet lug to allow for the use, as was done at the time, of the M1903 bayonet on the PC rifle. The bevel allows the M1903 bayonet locking mechanism to be activated and locked onto the Krag bayonet lug properly.

I had to use a lot of preservative on the leather scabbard which was really dry.

Thought it looked nice at the end of the Krag.

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That bayonet is in great condition for its age. I will try some of that conditioner on my scabbard. Thanks for the tip. The bayonet looks good on your school rifle. Thanks again.

Thanks. I have used Sno-Seal for years for all of my leather reconditioning. has beeswax in it along with other good stuff. I carefully rub it in with excess on the leather and let it sit over night and buff it off. Really soaks in and reconditions well.

I have used sno-seal for years on my boots. It certainly waterproofs as advertised. I have some pecards conditioner for antique leather. I will start with that. I believe it also contains bees wax.
        Thanks again, kc

What is the dark strip of wood behind the band? Don't think I've ever seen that before.

Normally there is just a plug (sometimes so tight and well-fitted and varnished over as to be nearly invisible) in the lightening channel, with the stock itself running full to the band.

Does yours have a plug as well, or is there a whole new end to the stock?

Dick, this is the PC that you've seen before. That dark strip is my obvious repair to the stock that had been badly damaged underneath and behind with the poor fit of an incorrect front band as found when I first acquired this rifle.

Remember the "Parquet" patterned front where I fabricated the walnut stock with a plug?

That's what you're seeing.

Before and after repair pictures:

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Sorry, guess I'm starting to lose track - so many Krags, so little time! Thanks for the clarification. :D :D :D

You have a mind overwhelmed with information and a long history of wisdom and experience with these firearms, I'd love to know all you've forgotten!

Thanks for all your help with learning about Krags, Dick.

You're very welcome - it's been fun!!

My school gun/PC likes either Krag or 1905, both fit just fine.

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Yes, they both DO "fit", as will the bayo made for the M1 Garand, but the little bevel definitely aids in operating the 1905 catch, which is why you should aways look for it as a little point of added authenticity (often overlooked by "assemblers") when vetting a prospective school gun purchase.

Of course, for anyone feverishly whipping out their files, the bevel must show proper wear and patina. :D :D