I did a post recently and I said I used IMR 4350 because it has lower pressure with the same velocity but I was wrong It took me a wile to figure out what I used when I was shooting  my 1904 Mauser it was H380 that is the one that has low pressure and still a good velocity ... I like IMR4064 when I shoot 30-40 although H380 turned out to be very accurate ... It took me a wile to figure out why I loaded 8MM with IMR4350 and I remembered Its because my 8MM has a 16 1/2 inch barrel and IMR4350 being the slowest burning of all the IMR powers it gives the nicest fireball when you shoot it and looks very impressive at the firing range ...      

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There is nothing wrong with fire balls out of a rifle or shotgun (don't fire a three inch shell in a two and a half inch shotgun.  Don't ask me how I know).  Fireballs scares the b'jeezus out of adults  >:(, puts smiles on kids faces  :D, and lets you know you're still alive!  ;D

Now where did I put that tannerite... ::)

In poor light the fireball sure blinds the shooter!

I have to digress... fireballs do nothing for accuracy and simply highlight the fact that you have unburnt powder exiting the barrel.  While that may impress some kiddies, as Chuck said, it can temporarily dazzle (blind) the shooter, and serves no practical purpose.  I prefer to worry more about my accuracy (as I'm usually practicing for a match) and less about impressing others.

I use 40 grains of IMR-4350 with the 220 gr bullet for my Krag, and it's definitely the dirtiest of powders.  I've been shooting this tried and true load for more than a decade.  However, my plan over the winter is to develop a load with the 220 gr RN and H4895, which should burn cleaner, and more complete.  If my accuracy suffers (remember, not all Krags like the same food), then I'll go back to my tried and true load!

It's probably worthwhile to distinguish between "dirty" and "incompletely burned".  All the IMR rifle powders are pretty much the same composition and, if burned completely, leave the same (minimal) residue. Your 4350 load may look "dirty" when what's really left behind is unburnt powder.

If QuickLOAD estimates are believed, 4350 gives only about a 92% burn with that load, while 4895 would give 100% to reach the same velocity at safe pressure.

(Edit: "Predicted data" removed to preclude mistaking for "tested data")

The fact that it's incompletely burned powder is no question.  In fact, when shooting over concrete (as we do at Kalamazoo), you can see the powder spray over the concrete when shooting prone.  When I refer to "Dirty", I'm really referring to the garbage left in the barrel (black sooty gunk) which takes about twice as much cleaning as my 1903 takes with the H4895 loads I shoot in her!  The unburned power is the real reason I'm planning on switching.  I feel that a 100% burn can only contribute to accuracy... and I really want to improve on that for next years matches.

By the way, thanks for posting the data, which helps to illustrate to everyone the advantages or disadvantages of one powder over another!

Pet Peeve: The OP posted five loading manual pages. Only two pages show the actual cartridge identity.

IMHO - This is mighty dangerous practice, when giving data for multiple cartridges.

Maybe the unidentified loads should be taken down or replaced with the full page?

Really I did not consider using H380 for a Krag load ... I turned out to be very accurate my be consider trying H380 ... When I loaded IMR 4350 it turned out to be a compressed power load it is the first time I have used a compressed load .. I dont know if thats good or bad ...   

I really like Varget power I noticed there is a load for Varget ... It is a very consistent even burning power and very accurate ... It mite prove to be a good accuracy load also ...

well your right IMR 4050 is the most accurate I turned to the ultimate source of knowledge for reloading the Lyman reloading manual and the Ideal reloading manual ...   

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I too have been interested in trying H 4350 in my Krag. However, in my 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser, H4350 shoots exceptionally, IMR 4350 does not.

I use my Hornady 9th and 10th editions as my bibles.  I have the Lyman manuals too, but I take them with a grain of salt.  When comparing the Lyman manual to Hornady, Speer, Nosler and some other data, the Lyman data can vary quite a lot, and sometimes, their listed data is much higher than the others.  FWIW, I use Lyman data for cast bullets as gospel, and the Hornady, Nosler and Speer data for jacketed.

I imagine that IMR-4350 with such a large load (compressed no less) with a 110 grain bullet would leave a huge amount of unburned powder exiting the barrel.  Seems a little wasteful.  I would think a faster powder, one that burns completely before the bullet exits the muzzle would be more practical provided you remain under 40,000 CUP.

BTW, IMR-4831 is slower than IMR-4350... however there are some fairly accurate data for 4831.  Hodgdon H4831SC is comparable in burn rate... and because it's a "Short Cut" powder, it meter's very well.  There are even slower burning IMR powders (IMR-7828 and IMR-7828SSC) but I think they're way to slow to be effective in a Krag.

I agree with your Lyman book statement, their loads appear to be pretty hot, higher than five other reloading manuals. Your suggested 220 grain bullet load serves me well. It has produced several 1 3/4 inch groups at 300 yards , with that accuracy from a 118 year old rifle, I have not been in a hurry to experiment with other loads.

It's served me well too... for more than 10 years now!  I can produce some nice tight groups at 200 yards (the rifle shoots better than I can, LOL).

It has been brought to my attention (and I agree) that some information posted here might confuse someone new to reloading, to the forum and this thread. while the information is good it could be taken out of context and become a possible problem. Be advised that this is in no way a negative reflection on the poster/s it is just an observation that we need clarification on posting load data and I will do so in the next few days

Help I have tried to delete post and edit them and have never been able to ... Is there a way to edit my post ??? I don't want any confusion on reloading data ... When I reload I have 5 different reloading data manuals and I look at all the data new and old and often on the internet I like the newer Lyman data manuals because it also gives the cup pressure ... Sorry for the confusion I'll try to fix it ... Thanks C.O. ....