Parashooter,
Points well taken about newcomers not knowing the related discussions. In a couple of years the 2 threads will be separated by many pages.
Your adding your photo again will help with understanding my earlier posts. My memory is not what it used to be but I will try to always refer to the 2 humps as front or rear and the tension as first stage and final stage maybe. For my taste material should be added to the front as in your illustration and not removed. If I honed an original it would be only to remove dings and smooth slightly maybe leaving most of the bluing. Same thing on the contact points on the receiver, minimal material removal, just make it smooth.

Not sure if that is allowed at Camp Perry or other sanctioned shoots. Please chime in if anyone knows.

My reference to tomatoes was because I am in the deep south and I am not familiar with the tricks on keeping things lubed but not sticky when shooting in frigid circumstances. Anyone care to share things that are not trade secrets?

One other thing to watch out for on sporters with custom stocks: the trigger guard may not be perfectly centered in relation to the receiver. If not the trigger will be binding on the side of the trigger guard. Besides the added friction from rubbing on the guard the trigger cams will be canted and not flat on the receiver casing excessive wear and more friction. This happened on my sporter, went though a lot of pain to correct it, in the end it was worth is as the trigger became free and the trigger guard screws lined up after the correction.

Links to related threads:
  (You need to Login

  (You need to Login