Hey all -

I've a 1898 full length rifle that was given to me nearly a decade ago that is all original, and didn't want to mess with.  But I love the cartridge, the action, and the accuracy.

I set out searching for a base for a deer / elk carbine project and found a 100k serial 1898 that has had, lets say, a rough life.  Missing the handguard, replacement butt plate, cut down and refinished stock, broken rear sight ladder, missing front site post, missing side cover screw, and - surprisingly - metal in the white.

My end goal here is a carbine length with no tap scope mount (either side or rear sight replacement).

Opinions are welcome, but at the risk of ruining a piece of history by modifying, I wanted thoughts on if I've truly ruined anything by cutting this rifle down.  At bare minimum the finish/patina has been permanently ruined, the stock is beyond saving, and it needs a handful of metal bits.  All of that, to me, adds up to a rifle that needs a new life.

I believe my first plan of attack is to check out the bore/barrel condition.  Next would be the essential metal bits (it needs a cover plate screw, front sight blade that I'll make for testing, and a rear sling swivel/barrel band solution).  Test firing for accuracy at that point, cutting the barrel down next.  Adding the scope mount next, and then, if after all that I still have a shooter, I'm considering trying my hand at rust blue on the modified rifle.  Finally, refinishing the stock with simple tung or BLO.

Feel free to poke holes, offer insight or direction from experience.

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I'm going out right now but before cutting anything down, I have a couple of sporterized, cut down Krag rifle barrels and attached receivers with an added front sight that I'd be willing to trade you for your barreled receiver. That way we would avoid cutting down a good rifle barrel and you could ave your base carbine length receiver and barrel to build up a good shooter/hunting carbine.

If interested, when I get back, I can post some pictures of what I have that I don't need anymore. The only cost for each of us would be shipping charge. I wouldn't charge you anything if you would want to do the same.

Let me know. Might save you some trouble and help me find a good home for a cut down Krag that I don't need. We don't like to see good Krag rifles cut down any more than they need to be. Yours can still be made into a nice rifle in the right stock. Metal wear "in the white" is not too bad if the barrel has not been cut or the receiver has not been drilled for a scope mount.

What is the serial number of this receiver?


Welcome, also, to KCA!

Thanks Whig, I'll have to roll that around.  The serial is 105510.  One of the attractive features, for me, because it's an antique and I won't pay a transfer.  I plan on getting my c&r this year, but haven't yet.


And thanks for the welcome!!


Whig wrote on Jan 19^th, 2020 at 4:11pm:

I'm going out right now but before cutting anything down, I have a couple of sporterized, cut down Krag rifle barrels and attached receivers with an added front sight that I'd be willing to trade you for your barreled receiver. That way we would avoid cutting down a good rifle barrel and you could ave your base carbine length receiver and barrel to build up a good shooter/hunting carbine. If interested, when I get back, I can post some pictures of what I have that I don't need anymore. The only cost for each of us would be shipping charge. I wouldn't charge you anything if you would want to do the same. Let me know. Might save you some trouble and help me find a good home for a cut down Krag that I don't need. We don't like to see good Krag rifles cut down any more than they need to be. Yours can still be made into a nice rifle in the right stock. Metal wear "in the white" is not too bad if the barrel has not been cut or the receiver has not been drilled for a scope mount. What is the serial number of this receiver? Welcome, also, to KCA!

That appears to actually be a model 1896. The serial number is near the end of model 1896 production. Might be best to keep it full length and restore it or swap it and let someone else do it. Just a thought.

Here's a closeup of the receiver...





Ned Butts wrote on Jan 19^th, 2020 at 6:58pm:

That appears to actually be a model 1896. The serial number is near the end of model 1896 production. Might be best to keep it full length and restore it or swap it and let someone else do it. Just a thought.

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Thanks for the SN. I wanted to check for you to see if it was listed in the Springfield Research Service manuals as a documented rifle that might have some important history behind it. It is not listed. Only about 5% of all Krags are listed in these manuals which sometimes adds value. Your Krag rifle receiver was made in May 1898 and is the Model 1896 still, as Ned mentioned above.

if you want to consider a swap, let me know and I'll get pictures posted. The two or three I have I believe are later serial numbers after Jan. 1, 1899 so they would need to be sent through a C&R or FFL. I got my FFL years ago for mostly my own collecting purpose.

I do not plan on getting rid of these anytime soon, so, take your time.

But, as you are seeing, the consensus is to NOT cut down a good barrel. There are enough sporterized cut downs out there to get what you need. We like to see Krags restored to more original condition if possible.

That appears to be a "hard struck" six, not uncommon. Krag stampings can be deceiveing . An examination of the other side of the receiver and the bolt handle "support" will tell us that it is a model 1896

'CoRifleman' - Welcome to the KCA Forum.

It would be a pity to shorten a full length Krag barrel, especially, when it is attached to a model 1896 receiver.

It is a 'crime' to put new holes in the receiver of a Krag worthy of restoration.

A lot of model 1896 receivers are deeply stamped and "1896" is easily misread as "1898". There are a lot of part differences between the two models, which tips off more experienced eyes.

IMHO - "Whig's" proposed trade makes a lot of sense and would be a mutually beneficial - "Win Win".

Here's the shots I have of the bolt side.

This has given me great pause on the direction of this project.


Ned Butts wrote on Jan 19^th, 2020 at 9:01pm:

That appears to be a "hard struck" six, not uncommon. Krag stampings can be deceiveing . An examination of the other side of the receiver and the bolt handle "support" will tell us that it is a model 1896

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The bolt handle ramp on the receiver and flared stock cut for the bolt handle do confirm you have a M1896 Krag rifle receiver and stock. The M1901 rear sight was a later change which is perfectly fine for this rifle. I prefer the M1901 sight for shooting accuracy. Some prefer the M1902 sight with the little Sergeant Peep sighting hole.

I’ve cut bbls that have already been cut but I would have to say that if you want a Krag sporter do some horse trading instead of hack sawing. With a Kraghaus scout scope mount and a IER scope you can build a nice slick deer hunting carbine. I built this Krag from my first Krag that was supposed to be a nra sporter but wasn’t. I like the way it came out. Here’s it is for some inspiration. Good luck.

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All - I haven't quite nailed it down, but I'll either sell or swap this for a carbine starter, or rebuild it as the rifle it was.  The barrel won't be cut.  Replacing the fore-end, adding a hand gaurd, and then extending the butt stock (toughest task) to original length will go a long way.

I've yet to see the bore.  That will most likely be the deciding factor if I restore it or pass it along.

Whig, I'll PM you shortly.

Sounds good. Glad to not have another Krag barrel chopped!

An update before I get back into this again thanks to Whig, who traded the pretty worn rifle barrel/receiver for an already sportered barrel/receiver.  None of this happens without his help, honestly.

I ordered a side plate, rear barrel band, loading door, butt plate, rear sling swivel, S&K no drill rear mount, low safety, a Weaver K4-60B and a Weaver K4-2.5x MicroTrak, Lee reloading dies, and a box of Sierra bullets.

Ideally the barreled receiver will make it here by the weekend, but either way, we're moving forward.

I removed the lacquered finish, and have applied many coats of tung oil to the stock. It's beautiful.

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That stock does look great after your Tung oil treatment.

The Krag should look really nice after it is all re-assembled. The bore in the barrel headed your way is almost unused in appearance and should make a good shooting Krag. Hopefully your experience with it will pan out.

Good luck and thanks for the updated pictures.

It's always nice to see a good restoration job after seeing all of the torn down Krags being sold on ebay and Gun Broker.

Still working on this, but wanted to share.  I know it's simple, but really enjoyed putting it together.  Need to sort a loading/feeding and the butt plate issue, but otherwise looking good.

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Nice job.

Looks nice so far. The offset of the S&K mount takes a bit of getting used to but the system works well and you should still be able to use the original irons as a back up. One tip when scoping a Krag that ejects straight up. rotate the scope to the left to take the adjustment turret out of the way of the empty brass. This also takes a little getting used to and requires you to stop and think when you adjust (right is up and left is down, down is right and up is left  :-?) Also doesn't work with some scopes with fancy cross hairs. Good looking project and thank you for sparing a military barreled action!!!!!

I got into a very intense conversation with the gentlemen at the Scout Rifle forum over my Krag/scout build’s scope location. I mounted mine as far forward as possible but it overhangs the action enough that a load would not eject however mty cases ejected fine. My statement to them was that the Krag was designed as a single shot rifle with a magazine. As it has a side gate to load or unload it the only thing ever ejected will be mty brass. The only way to get the scope clear of the action would have been to use higher rings or cut on the Kraghaus mount. Didn’t want to do either.  Big part of a scout rifle design is the low powered and low mounted scope so when the rifle is shouldered your eye naturally aligns with the scope. However a side mount is a good compromise if the holes are already there. Your stock turned out sharp.

Thanks guys - the 4x scope is a post style reticle, so no turning that one.  The 2.5, however, is a duplex, so I can turn that one.

The offset will take some getting used to, bit I liked the idea of no modification to the gun to use it.  I'm excited to get this one to the range.  I probably will try and find a cheek rest solution, since the scope ends up pretty high because of these rings.  They have standard rings, but I think it would only get me 1/4" drop - which isn't that much. 

Yes, the irons, in the flat position, still work, which is a GREAT side benefit of this mount style.

I got the barrel band screw (originally it had a stacking swivel screw in the barrel band) today, but I'm waiting a couple days for the 1898 follower to see if I can address a feed issue.

With all the covid fears now, it looks like I might have a LOT of time to test her in the upcoming weeks.

Since your scope is off-set about an inch or two inches to the left, it is useful to adjust the scope so your shots center that distance to the right of point of aim.
This will keep the 'line of sight' parallel to the 'path of the bullet' (in terms of windage) at all distances.

If you adjust the cross-hairs so point of aim intersects with the bullet grouping, at 50 nor 100 yards, beyond that distance, projectiles will continue angling to the left.

The groups distance from point of aim will increase as range increases.

If the 'line of the bore' and 'sight line' are parallel and bullets group 2 inches to the right at 100 yards, the group will be centered approximately 2 inches to the right at 600 yards.

Look at the Triad buttpack to go on your buttstock. Well made. It uses velcro to attach it on the stock and has extra velcro strips and can be adjusted for height and width. I bought 2 and put the plain one on the Krag and the one with the outside pocket on my mini30/m1a build. Holds a spare 20 rd mini30 mag. Might make it easier to see through your scope. I would think about lower rings, 1/4 is more than you think right next to your eye. And they have a choice of colors. I like mine.

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Hey all, I think it's finally good from a function standpoint.

Replacing my clearly 1896 follower and carrier with an 1898 model fixed the majority of the feed problems.  I still sometimes would have the last round hanging up just below where the bolt could grab it.  Looking more closely at where the anchor for the s&k sticks in the cutoff opening (I had filled the gap where there was no longer a cutoff blank when the cutoff was in the "off" position), the front of the anchor, although slightly rounded, sticks into the path of the cartridge rim slightly.  Just a little work with a small file to create more of an feathered angle on the profiting part of that rod/pin allowed the rim to easily slide all up to the top and be picked up by the bolt.

Once this snow melts away it'll be off to the range.