Took the Krag out to 300yds today. Only shot a 5rd group today-didn’t want to ruin it with 10rds. Tried using a 6:00 hold as best as I could see-I don’t have a regulation 300yd target and my spotting scope could see the holes without a “shoot and see” target. 168gr Hornady’s 36.5grs 4895 shot off a front rest.

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Yer eyes did rather well. Congrats. Need more shooting to see what you can really do with the Krag!

Thanks-I was rather surprised considering the sight picture. The rifle has been consistently shooting about MOA at both 100 and 200 yards so now it comes down to the “nut behind the butt”

I haven't worked out the bugs yet to get my MOA at 300 yards with my Krag rifle. Still working on that but I have gotten pretty consistently close to MOA at 100 and 200 yards. I need a different load and maybe bullet for better 300 yard results.

Thanks for sharing and keep blasting away!

300 yards is easily done, with good ammo and a good Krag, mine has shot 1 3/4" groups at 300 many times. That is, when my 73 year old eyes throw me a bone. I shoot my Krag better at 300 than 100.

If you can achieve shots like those at 300, then 200 ought to be a breeze!

Great target Griff!  I'd say you both like that load.
Vic

IMR or Hodgdon "4895"?

Not sure what Griff used... but my preference is for H4895.  It just seems to meter a little better than IMR for me and I get more consistent results.  I'm using H4895 for most of my ammo (except 7.7x58 Jap and 30-40).  I'm planning on trying a new load for my Krag with a 178 gr ELD and 4895... just to see what results I can get at 200 yards (looking to squeeze a little better accuracy for matches). 

I thought you were already getting great accuracy at 200 yards, Paul. What are you trying to do, break some records?

I've been trying to get close to what you've been shooting at 200. I've been getting close with more practice but I haven't gotten out to shoot much for a while.

Been working on more reloads, though. Just annealed about 500 pieces of Krag brass. They've been re-sized, cleaned, de-burred and annealed. Next, they get a personal massage before reloading. Got to keep the Krag happy!

psteinmayer wrote on Mar 17^th, 2020 at 9:00pm:

Not sure what Griff used... but my preference is for H4895.  It just seems to meter a little better than IMR for me and I get more consistent results.  I'm using H4895 for most of my ammo (except 7.7x58 Jap and 30-40).  I'm planning on trying a new load for my Krag with a 178 gr ELD and 4895... just to see what results I can get at 200 yards (looking to squeeze a little better accuracy for matches).

Iam using IMR 4895. Side note my Hornady cases have been fired five times-trimmed once. Iam neck sizing only the neck tensions “feels” fine wonder if/when I should anneal the cases

A lot has been written here about annealing and neck sizing only. If you are only shooting one Krag, you only need to be neck re-sizing because your cases are fire formed to your chamber dimensions.

It still can be a benefit, though, to anneal the cases every 5 or 10 firings. Others may feel a little different about the exact numbers but something close to this is a good rule.

If you are finding frequent cracked necks, though, you should be annealing your cases. The brass only lasts a certain amount of time and abuse no matter how good you care for it.

If you are shooting old cases from factory ammo made decades ago, you'll probably have cracked necks sooner. Examine them carefully to pull any damaged ones out and discard them. I look and feel each case by turning it in my hand while I feel the neck for cracks. I pick up cracks both ways.

Also, when I am heating each case with my propane torch and turning the case as it gets hot, you can see weakened areas that are split or starting to split internally by the color change. You'll see a little thin line in the color change as it heats to near red hot before dropping the heated piece of brass. I have found a few early cracks that way.

Takes some time and practice but it's worth it. Paul has been annealing for years and gets dozens of firings out of his brass!

IMHO - 'Unused' Brass may get brittle just from age.

If you have unfired & unprimed Brass that is over 20 years old, it is probably a good idea to anneal it before using it.

It is not unusual to see original unfired ammo, that is 80 to 100 years old and still in factory boxes, with neck cracks. This happens just from keeping tension on a bullet for that long.
(This is probably further exacerbated by temperature extremes during storage).

butlersrangers wrote on Mar 18^th, 2020 at 2:28pm:

It is not unusual to see original unfired ammo, that is 80 to 100 years old and still in factory boxes, with neck cracks. This happens just from keeping tension on a bullet for that long.

I have about 100 original 220 grain round nose bullets pulled from cases just like.  Beautiful bullets, awful split necks.

Most of the several hundred cases I have in my rotational stock dates back a couple decades or more... with some R-P cases more than 35 years old with more than 20 reloads on 'em!  I anneal every 5 or so loadings, and I neck size only.  I average a cracked neck every time I shoot (because let's face it... the brass is old).  I have some newer brass but I'm holding off on using it until my older stock is plum wore out! 

Annealing is very simple.  There are several methods and some guys swear that their process is the ONLY way to anneal.  Here's how I do it:  Using a LEE trimming shell holder chucked in my drill, I slowly spin the case while heating the neck with a butane torch.  Heat the case until the shoulder just starts to change color... but NEVER to glowing!  Then, drop them out of the shell holder into a metal bowl and let 'em cool!