Hey guys I'm new here and recently picked up a 1896 krag carbine with an unknown stock and a side scope mount. I'm looking for advice on finishing the stock and cleaning up the rust. It's missing a few things and I have ordered a few parts to finish it off. Thoughts comments and ideas to complete this rifle would be great.

I just bought a barreled receiver recently not for a build just to look at and measure. It had a lot of paint of all things and some rust. Some of the paint removers are very toxic so I used brake fluid to get the paint off.
Important is do no harm, so sand paper, wet or dry paper and abrasive scotch brite would be a no/no for me. Penetrating oil and paper towels can do a lot, on heavy rust maybe fine steel wool with lots of oil. There is a nonabrasive scotch brite made from blue plastic for dishes, not sure how it would work on steel parts with oil for flushing it out. Might be worth a try.
Picture of the stock will help the others give the best advise. Oh and we like to see Krags anyway, even if it does not help us give advice.
One more thing, Welcome to KCA.

She's not pretty and I took it apart last night

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Here is a closer picture

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Just curious if you plan on scoping it. Not that it matters much since it already had been scoped with the modifications already done. Looks like a personal choice in my opinion. But your choice may give you different advice on going down the path you have chosen. Also curious about the dovetail for a sight with straddling tapped holes for a different configured sight. Doe the barrel have any markings on it, especially near the muzzle? What is the length of the barrel? 24"?

Aaron, Welcome to KCA during the world pandemic for the flu. Nice to be playing with Krags during the govt controlled lockdown and violation of our freedoms! Great country we live in!

We love Krags here and are always willing to lend a hand in figuring out what you have and what to do with it.

First, if you can post some more pictures of the Krag including the receiver. Are there holes drilled at all in the receiver? I can't tell from the pictures you posted. What is the serial number? Krag carbines were made at different times and have a variety of serial number ranges. Sometimes we can tell for certain, based on the serial number, if the Krag started out as a carbine or rifle and was cut down to carbine length or had a barrel switch. As Knute pointed out, barrel length is important. That's the measurement from the muzzle to the front of the closed bolt face. The carbine is exactly 22 inches. With a banded front sight, you may have a cut down barrel done after production.

The raw wood stock would certainly appreciate numerous coats of Boiled Linseed Oil. That will give it a nice darkened military finish. Let the coats settle in for a while before wiping down repeatedly.

If you mount an authentic Krag rear sight, it should cover the added dove tail on your barrel. These sights are available on ebay and Gun Broker as well as other parts sites on the internet. Check out granpasgunparts.com. He's running a sale right now on Krag parts and he's a great guy to work with for what you need!

As you progress, let us see more pictures so we can enjoy your progress.

How is the bore condition? Many Krags have very pitted or worn bores from years of use with corrosive primer shooting. But, even a shot out or pitted bore can still shoot well, we have found out.

Good luck and thanks for sharing.

Also, if you have some surface rust, I have found that if you take a copper penny (made before 1982) and scrape the rust with the edge of the penny, it will scrape off rust well without even damaging bluing. Put oil on the rust before scraping. It's a neat little trick that I have used for years. Scrape carefully with oil and see what happens. Helps a lot for surface rust but cannot fill in holes if pitted, of course.

Looks like I have a p on the barrel right past the receiver on the bottom side. I believe the serial number 81502. Also I did think about scoping it as it's already drilled and tapped for a mount. I put the bolt in and measured 22 1/2 ☹️

Pictures help but the "P" is usually there as a proof mark put on at Springfield Armory to show that the barrel passed pressure testing . If the barrel is 22 1/2 inches, it probably is, then, a cut down Krag rifle barrel. That's real common. Long 30 inch rifle barrels were frequently cut down to be used and carried easier for hunting. The .30-40 Krag round is a great hunting caliber in this part of the world.

I don't have my lists with me but the Krag serial number 81502 was made around October 1897.

By memory, I believe that this was made slightly after the second grouping of M1896 carbines and would, therefore, have been originally made as a rifle. That would confirm that this was a M1896 Krag rifle cut down to carbine length.

That's what I was afraid of, it definitely is a nice length. I found a 1901 rear sight on eBay. I also ordered the selector switch for single feed or magazine fed. I will try to get more pictures and will take a good look at the bore. Thanks for a knowledge 👍

'Aaron' - Welcome to the KCA Forum.

Your metal does not look that bad to me. There appears to be lots of finish still on your barrel.

Using small #0000 steel wool pads soaked with penetrating oil or Hoppe's #9 will remove light surface rust and not harm metal finish and patina. Use just a light pressure and keep things moist with penetrating oil.

Heavier scale can be broken down with a worn bronze bore-brush, copper penny, edge of a discarded brass cartridge case and penetrating oil.

I have had luck with a mixture of linseed oil & pumice or rotten-stone, used with the edge of a Popsicle Stick, to create a 'slurry' and burnish a rusty barrel surface into a pleasant patina. Go slow and occasionally wipe off mess with paper towel to check progress. (Repeat process until happy with results).

Aaron, I don't know if you are familiar with original Krag finishes. The various metal parts received specific and different metal finishes.

The metal was not a uniform "Bluing".

Krag barrels were rust blued (officially called 'browning').

The Reciever, side-plate & magazine-door were case-hardened. This was mottled colors that often turn silvery with age.

The Bolt body was polished bright. The extractor-spring was flame blue. The striker-knob and bolt-sleeve were case-colored. Screws were blackened.

BTW - Original Krag American walnut stocks were stained at Springfield Armory with Logwood, which gave a reddish-brown color, prior to getting their linseed oil finish.

An original Krag rear sight will hide the unofficial 'dovetail' that was added to your barrel. The Krag sight screws are a peculiar 30 tpi. Reproduction screws are available from S&S Firearms, Glendale, N.Y.

(FWIW - I have Krag #81028. It is a cut-down model 1896 rifle. I recently fitted it to a poorly cut-down model 1898 stock, to make what I call, a 'Faux' or false 1896 Carbine. The front-sight is a 1903 Springfield sight, so no one should be deceived in the future).

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We are just so full of helpful advice! If you do go with an original sight it will only be accurate at 100 yards or whatever you set your front sight for (I might go for 150 yd zero). Grandpa's for that cut off switch.  I think they may be different for the 96 receiver. If you end up using the scope and the cut off is in the way a piece of steel could be fitted and filed to shape to allow cartridges to feed freely and without damage to the rims, I think I have heard of the right size nail being filed to shape for this.

'Aaron', from your photos it appears your Krag was drilled for a Weaver #2 side-mount plate.

The scope mount that attaches to this plate is still made or available. This is not a bad rig if you ever wish to try a scope on your Krag.

I have a model 1898 carbine that was unfortunately 'drilled & tapped'. It is a good Range gun.

(p.s. Any of the various U.S. Krag 'magazine cut-offs' will work with the model 1896 action. The Weaver side-mount interferes with rotating the issue safety-lever, but, not the cut-off lever).

The Weaver mount is off-set to the left, so the 'iron sights' can still be used with the scope in place.

Attached photos of Weaver #2 plate and mount:

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Wow you guys are really helpful, I do plan on using the sights for now and possibly a scope later! I will keep you guys updated with my progress and questions. I also bought some brass for reloading.

Besides being helpful, these guys are a lot of fun. We have this thread going but it has not been updated lately (see below). There are a lot more feet photos not added, but you will get the idea and contribute one of your own one of these days.

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Welcome to the Krag club. A great place to learn all things Krag. I’ve used oily bronze wool to clean bluing without hurting it. Make sure your [wheat] penny is copper not copper-zinc alloy.

All 'wheat-back' U.S. Lincoln cents are copper. It's the 'Lincoln Memorial-back' pennies that were eventually changed to zinc alloy. (Year)?

As stated above, use a copper penny made before 1982.

If your Lincoln Memorial penny has a date before 1982, it is made of 95% copper. If the date is 1983 or later, it is made of 97.5% zinc and plated with a thin copper coating.

A little 78 penny, wd40 and fine steel wool goes a long ways. How can I polish the bolt etc ?

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Aaron - I'm sorry your  thread kind of got hi-jacked with other topics.

IMHO - It would be a mistake to put a 'high polish' on your bolt. Given the patina that is present on your other parts, a bright polished bolt would look real odd.

I would recommend you take a 2" X 1" piece of green scotch-brite pad, damped it with Hoppe's or penetrating oil, and burnish your Bolt, following the machined contours and avoid 'rounding' sharp edges.

BTW - Your photo shows that your Bolt has been fitted with a commercial Buehler Safety. This is a nice feature if you use a scope on your Krag.

I will keep that in mind, also I think that's why they also took the magazine selector out. I put one in from Grandpas gun parts. I definitely didn't catch the safety being different either. I cleaned up the barrel as well. Just need to tackle the receiver really good. Also I plan on putting a vintage scope on it for the fun of it.

Did a little work on the stock tonight. Looks good 👍

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Second coat of varnish.

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You're going to have a shiny new toy soon. I'm anxious to see the final project!

Any ideas on a good recoil pad to put on this stock. Could be universal I don't care as long as it looks good and does the job. I do like the leather ones but can't make up my mind

IMHO - The original Krag metal Butt-Plate looks best.

At the Range, I wear my stylish Norfolk Shooting-Jacket and a Deer Stalker Cap ....  ::)

Actually, I have a couple of heavy 'shooter' sweat-shirts with built in shoulder-padding.

Even in hot weather, I wear a cotton U.S.M.C. style Shooting-Jacket, which has shoulder-padding.

I do have a leather-covered (shotgun-style) Butt Pad. It slips  on and is secured with a velcro strap. It can be used on a rifle, but, I haven't found it necessary.

I am not Rambo. I only shoot .22's and pistols, in a 'T'-Shirt.

I use the Pachmayr Decelerator Butt Pads on many of my military rifles I shoot in addition to the Krags because I'll go out and shoot 100 or more rounds at a time and it would give me some shoulder burn if I didn't. They're rubber and slip on and off easily.

Get a set of all three sizes for different size butts (the gun's, not yours). You'll be glad you got these!

Good luck.

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Here she is! Just trying to find the correct band for the front part of the stock and my ammo should be here by the end of the week 👍🏻

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Man, that's quite a scope for a Krag. The Full Monty!

Looks good to go when you get the barrel band.

Good luck blasting away!

In regard to a barrel-band, you might just start with a regular Krag rifle band.
Your stock appears 'stepped' for it, it has a degree of adjustment, and you can use or not use the sling-swivel.

I bought a band with the sling swivel on it buts it's too narrow. Would a carbine one be wider ?

Krag model 1899 carbine barrel-band has the same inside dimensions as the rifle barrel-band. (The rifle band has the virtue of a degree of adjustment).

I regret telling you this, but, shaping the stock tip for a barrel-band should have been done before the wood finish.

(p.s. - Even the model 1896 carbine barrel-band has similar inside dimensions, except that it accommodates a larger barrel radius).

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Yeah, the stock has a indention where a band was. Just thought the stock band would work. Yikes. What if I left the band off ?

A Split Stock from barrel whip!

The Krag trigger-guard screws are very close together. If barrel is not held in channel by band or anchor-screw, the barrel rises putting lots of torque on the wood, causing splits in front and behind the magazine box.

How close is your band to fitting? The Krag rifle barrel-band can be 'spread' a bit by twisting a screw-driver blade in the gap. (I do this to get the band over the retaining pin that goes through the stock, in front of the 'clamped' band).

IHHO  - If spreading the band won't work, you are best off to reshape and fit a barrel-band to the forearm now and re-finish the area, where wood was reduced.

(If the spread band will slip onto the stock, you can file a narrow channel, around the stock, for it to clamp into and be retained. The channel will be hidden by the band).

That step in the stock begs for a barrel-band. With a File, the shaping won't take long.

Protect the finished stock area, behind the 'Step', with some wraps of masking-tape.

Here's a few pictures of the issue

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It's 1.230" where the band should go

The barrel-band "U" should be on the Right-Side of the rifle.
(The barrel-band has a slight taper on the inside).

Your barrel-band appears very 'stretched' in your photos.

I suspect wood will have to be removed (and contoured), especially at the bottom of your forearm, to allow proper seating of the band and engagement of the (band/swivel) screw.

Luckily I can just redo the forearm and be good. I will try that this weekend and go from there

FWIW: To fit the barrel-band, I suggest you take your rifle apart.

Make sure the top inside radius of your barrel-band matches the radius of the barrel at the point where it will be located.

With the barreled/action off of your stock, check the fit of the barrel-band to the wood.

There is an obvious shoulder that positions on the top of the barrel-channel.

The inside radius of the lower part of the barrel-band is a 'pattern' for the front part of the forearm wood contour.

Once the forearm tip can easily enter the barrel-band, you can reassemble your Krag and use the barrel as a guide as you slowly remove & contour wood and carefully fit the band into position.

How tight should the band be on the barrel ? Almost got it where I want it

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That's looking good. Krag barrel-band fits close, but, not tight or binding.

I got it to slide all the way on the forearm with the band screw started. But can tighten it up some. I would say it's tight on the barrel and forearm.

The band has to fit tight enough to not loosen with recoil.  You don't have the through pin rifle stocks have just in front of the band to help keep the band from sliding. With the new Criterion barrel I have on my sporter the band is now a bit loose than before and I still have the through pin. I have to file down the sling tab to get a tighter fit before shooting it.

If the band tightly 'binds' your barrel, it can cause accuracy problems as the barrel heats and expands.
It is desirable to have a 'paper thin' clearance between the barrel and the band.

If you create a shallow 'recess' around the stock, for the band to fit into when clamped, the 'recess' will retain the band and prevent it from shifting forward during sustained firing. The band should firmly clamp the wood.

(The barrel-band retention on original Krag rifles was a 'pin' through the stock and on carbines the band-spring).

That's exactly what I needed to know.

Here's the finished product. Haven't shot it yet but hopefully soon.

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Barrel-band looks good!

With a scope like that on a Krag, it should be a tack driver!

Good job. Enjoy blasting away.

Nice looking rifle you put together. I have a`98 sporter that must have been worked on many years ago that has the same scope mount and an old Lyman 4x. You can tell that it must have been used for hunting a lot with the dings and scratches on the stock but I will never refinish it. I have refinished many stocks an what I do on them is to go over the stock with 0000 steel wool to take the gloss off of it and give it more of a vintage look.