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General >> Ammunition, reloading, shooting, etc >> Chamber differences and tough to close bolt
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Message started by CoRifleman on Jun 16th, 2020 at 8:20pm

Title: Chamber differences and tough to close bolt
Post by CoRifleman on Jun 16th, 2020 at 8:20pm
Hey all, I'm not going to add anything super earth shattering here, but I hope it helps the next guy.

I have a 1898 Krag Rifle and cut down sporter.  I've previously fired a handful of R-P brass reloads and Win brass factory ammo in the rifle with no issues.  When I went to full length resize the rifle fired ammo in my press, I had difficulty at the end of the stroke as the die works the shoulder of the case.

When I went to chamber those rounds in the carbine, the bolt would close approx 1/4 of the travel and then required some greater force to finish.

I marked the shoulder area with a sharpie and tried again and had a bright ring at the case edge of the shoulder.  I tried sanding a bit off of a shell holder that I had and repressing them, but I just couldn't get that shoulder to move without a LOT of effort, and even then, the bolt didn't want to close easily.

I read on here about annealing, and tried my hand at it.  I took the cases, torched the ends pretty good and then doused them in water.  Afterwards I trimmed the cases to length and ran them through the die again, with the sanded AND the factory shell holder.  Both shell holders produced a shoulder without interference to the chamber and the bolt closed with very little additional efffort, if any at all.

I now know that my rifle and carbine have different chamber depths, and to keep my brass separate between the two.  If I run into an issue, reforming the shoulder and pushing it back on a fire formed case is INIFITELY easier if you anneal it first.

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