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Choosing brass for the .30-40 Krag (Read 6668 times)
Short Round
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Choosing brass for the .30-40 Krag
Feb 1st, 2012 at 5:12pm
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Thanks for the welcome aboard!

I'm still just mostly lurking and soaking in information.

I was going to buy some brass and I wanted to know which is preferred, the Remington brass or the Winchester brass?

I am a fairly experienced reloader and I'm new to this caliber and rifle.  I see WW brass gets a lot of recommendations in match circles (of the two and not paying Lapua prices).

My rifle is a full length 1898 model, uncut 1902 cartouche stamped, sn 417747 recently acquired from a friend who picked it up a the CMP south store.  It's got it's share of scratches but otherwise looks complete and unmolested.  It has the rear sight quite similar to the M1903 rifles. 

The barrel is pretty fouled with layers of carbon and my cleaning has uncovered some mild to moderate pitting about a foot below the muzzle.  Not sure if this should push me toward lead loads or stay with copper jacketing.  I do know you should strip all the copper out before going with cast. 

Well I'm interested in your thoughts on which brass to order and perhaps which direction you might thing I'd have more luck with.  I will be occasionally paper punching at 100 and 200 yards only.  I do not need full power loads to take game or reach long range.

thanks in advance.

Tom
  
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Century2
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Re: Choosing brass for the .30-40 Krag
Reply #1 - Feb 1st, 2012 at 7:26pm
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I prefer the Winchester Brass. I'm not sure if is real or perceived however. The Winchester alloy seems to hold up better, the vent holes seem to be more consistent and the annealing seems to be more consistent (less splitting). I do use both however because the Remington has been more readily available. I use Remington brass for my 220-grain bullets and Winchester for my 180-grain bullets.
  

A vote is like a rifle; its usefulness depends upon the character of the user. Theodore Roosevelt
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tanker
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Re: Choosing brass for the .30-40 Krag
Reply #2 - Feb 1st, 2012 at 9:26pm
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I've reloaded both and mainly use Remington, again due to availability. I do recommend neck sizing only since full length sizing is somewhat needless in a bolt gun. I neck size and trim every loading and have noticed no discernible difference between the cases. I load 150gr jacketed spitzer bullets over a mild 3031 powder charge since all I do is punch holes in paper.
Have reloaded some 5 times and have discarded only a few of either type in the 30+ years of doing it. Hotter loads will certainly change the dynamics of case and chamber wear.
GL 
  
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psteinmayer
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Re: Choosing brass for the .30-40 Krag
Reply #3 - Feb 2nd, 2012 at 2:30am
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I have been reloading Krag ammo since the mid 1980s and I use both also...  I will say that I think the Winchester brass cleans up much nicer than the Remington.  The Remington brass tends to be much darker and often displays more tarnish.  As for preference, it's a wash!
  
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Short Round
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Re: Choosing brass for the .30-40 Krag
Reply #4 - Feb 2nd, 2012 at 3:11am
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Thanks for sharing your thoughts on the brass topic.

Tom
  
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Kirk
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Re: Choosing brass for the .30-40 Krag
Reply #5 - Feb 6th, 2012 at 3:09am
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I was going to buy some brass and I wanted to know which is preferred, the Remington brass or the Winchester brass?

I prefer Winchester but RP is fine as well.  Whatever you buy, check the brass before loading it.  Many years (30+) ago, I got a box of new RP cases (components, not ammo)  where the flash holes were not finished properly; 50% had a thin layer of brass completely covering the flash hole & the rest nearly covering them.  All that was needed was to run a flash hole deburring tool through them.\ to clean them out


The barrel is pretty fouled with layers of carbon and my cleaning has uncovered some mild to moderate pitting about a foot below the muzzle.  Not sure if this should push me toward lead loads or stay with copper jacketing.  I do know you should strip all the copper out before going with cast. 

The fouling may not be copper.  Try soaking the bore for a few days with Ed's Red (available form Brownells or make your own - do a web search for the recipe)  Ed's Red is a superior solvent that dissolves and manner of crud.  I have a M1898 on order from the CMP with a barrel as you describe & will let it soak for a time before brushing it out.  I've used Ed's Red on a M1903 barrel that was clogged with debris from firing blank ammo.  It took several weeks as I changed the fluid 3x but it finally got it out.  At the end of the first week, a gray sludge poured out; the second week's drainage was thinner and the third week's fluid still was pink.
  
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Short Round
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Re: Choosing brass for the .30-40 Krag
Reply #6 - Apr 28th, 2012 at 1:01pm
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Holy Moly!

I just finally got in my Remington brass from Midway (only place I could find it). 

Upon handling the brass I was immediately struck at how much lighter the current brass weight is. 

old brass marked Rem-UMC over .30 USA weighs 289 grains
new brass marked R-P over .30-40 Krag weighs 259 grains

30 grains of brass is huge, the old brass definetely feels more substantial.  I wish I had more than the 14 pieces of the old stuff.
  
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jogn
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Re: Choosing brass for the .30-40 Krag
Reply #7 - May 5th, 2012 at 9:42am
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I've had horrible luck with the R-P.  Several neck and shoulder splits on the first firing of new brass, lot of 100.  It not a headspace or rifle issue as I've had on other problems.   I've got some old Rem-UMC and W-W Super that I've fired 10-15 times (light loads).
  
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stevenjay1
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Re: Choosing brass for the .30-40 Krag
Reply #8 - May 6th, 2012 at 12:33am
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Weighting your R-P brass in interesting.  I just pulled out an unopened bag of Winchester 30-40 brass I purchased about ten years ago (my last bag) and took five random cases and weighted them.  They were much lighter then the R-P brass by about 100 grains!  Here are the weights; 165.7, 165.4, 165.4, 164.9 and 166.8.  I can't imagine that the R-P brass would weight that much more then the Winchester Brass.  I don't have any other cases to weigh as a comparison.  The Winchester cases have lasted a long time but I generally use a light load and anneal them when they seem to get harder to resize.
  
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