Hi John.

The inaccuracy may stem from the lightweight spitzer bullets.  Krags are funny beasts, and almost human in their love of "food."  The original Krag load was a 220 grain round nosed cupro-nickel jacketed bullet with 40 grains of Laflin & Rand .30 powder.  The closest you'll ever get to this with todays components is a 220 grain jacketed bullet with 40.0 grains of IMR-4350.  The IMR-4350 (originally made by Dupont) is practically a clone of the old L&R .30 powder in composition and burn rate.  Most of us use the Hornady 220 grain RN Interlock bullet, which has an exposed lead tip, but follows the same dimensions, meplat and ogive of the original bullet.  However any 220 grain RN bullet will do. 

There are other loads that shooters use that work amazingly well too.  I have a friend who shoots a 150 gr RN bullet (normally a 30-30 bullet) and he WINS matches!  The point is to try several different loads and bullets and find what works best and is the most accurate in your rifle.

This is a great forum with TONs of helpful people who will gladly help you figure out anything you need to know about all things Krag!

Maybe next summer, you can venture to Camp Perry and shoot in the Roosevelt Match with other Krags.  Unless Culpeper makes it next year, you'll likely have the oldest Krag on the firing line!!!

Jon Waite wrote on Aug 12^th, 2018 at 11:47am:


I do not want to cool your passion of the moment but do send for Joe Farmer's book before you start to spend money on other stuff. 

The photo section of KCA can answer eighty-one percent of your equipment questions.  Research before buying will get you the rest of the way.  I bought a lot of items for too much money through my ignorance.  Bought #112 from a founding member of the KCA and discovered way too late it was upgraded to 1896 specs.  He never mentioned a thing about it as he was taking my money.

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Ok thank you culpepper!

Blued blades were not 1895 only, probably not 1895 at all, or just a few early in the year

Re: Magazine Rifle
Reply #23 - May 5th, 2018 at 7:36am
     Quote Print PostModifySplitRemove 
We all have things to learn from these discussions. I recall (a little foggy now though) a dispute a number of years ago between Bill Mook and other Krag collectors, Scott Duff for one at the Baltimore show about blueing of early bayonet blades. There it is in the 1895 report:
"(4) The blueing of parts of the bayonet discontinued, as the heat of the niter bath was found to injure the temper of the blade"
Good solid information many thanks

On the subject of bayonets and blued blades:  I have a couple of 1894 dated bayonets with at least some amount of blue still showing.  The 1895 dated blades are, I think, harder to find than the 1894.  The report on blued blades is from April, 1895, but did they date bayonets with calendar or fiscal production dates?

On shooting this rifle, I would strongly resist the temptation till the stock is repaired - again.  In the meantime, I would look for help in finding a serviceable stock without a repair.  The repair you have is probably "of the period" and may even be the reason this rifle survived with only the change of the rear sight.  I have an identical repair on an L C Smith that belonged to my wife's grandfather.  He broke the stock in two sometime around 1900 and did shoot it successfully a couple of times, but in the 55 years  we've had the piece, the repair has loosened and I think shooting yours would have similar results.  I've been told that there are modern methods that may save our shotgun, but to break it again by shooting, may make a another fix impossible.

Donald Hartman's Book "The U.S. Krag Bayonets", page 31, "Krag Bayonet Modifications", indicates that the Krag bayonet was issued blued (blade, pommel, guard) in 1894 and that the finish was discontinued on April 1, 1895

Mr. Hartman's book also includes a reprint of a letter composed by Col. Mordecai, Commanding Officer, Springfield Armory (dated March 9, 1895), recommending that the blade be left bright.  Col. Mordecai's recommendation was due to the reason stated above by Ned Butts and also due to the coating of the blade being destroyed/marred by digging, cutting and inserting/withdrawing from the scabbard.  Also the cost savings of not bluing the blade was a consideration. 

As stated many times on this site... do your research, However, I often learn a Great Deal by my mistakes!  Especially when my wife hits me upside my head and says "Why in the H_ _ _ did you do that!"

Here's an Ebay item that requires some thought and knowledge.

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Hope I'm not stepping on some toes by posting this Ebay item.  I Just thought it would be a nice educational subject.  I actually like the bayonet!

BTW: Welcome and awesome Krag Jon Waite... I am so envious!!!

Jon Waite wrote on Aug 12^th, 2018 at 3:11pm:


Butlersrangers and I both live in Michigan (Me near Ann Arbor, and BR near Flint).  Where in Central Illinois?  My father was born in LaSalle and we still have family there!

I will let someone else more knowledgeable in values speak to that... but unless it's museum quality, shooting it won't hurt a thing, unless you physically damage it.  Try googling "Grandpa's Gun Parts" for a cleaning rod.  Not sure if he'll have one for the 1892/94, but he has just about everything else. 

As for the sling, there are several that are correct.  Originally, the 1887 sling would have been used. Later, the 1907 sling (for the 1903 Springfield rifle) was authorized.  If you do plan on shooting in competition like some of us do, you'll want to use the 1907 sling, which helps with position shooting.  As far as I know, Turner Saddlery has the best (Mr. Turner obtained all of the original Rock Island sling equipment and makes them to exact spec)!  Turner also has the 1887 sling.  All of my leather slings are from Turner.  There are several other sling companies whos products are good also.  Also legal by CMP rules are the web slings used on the Garand Rifle.

Hope this all helps.
Paul

Found lots of three piece rods on the WWW but no original/reproduction one piece.

Looked at all my usual parts places with no luck.

Listed below is information taken from "The Krag Rifle Story" and "The American Krag Rifle and Carbine":