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After market triggers for Krags and trigger mods (Read 4259 times)

Whig KCA Official Member Offline Krag Enthusiast! Posts: 1324 Location: Balt MD Joined: Sep 24^th, 2016 Gender:	Re: After market triggers for Krags and trigger mods Reply #15 - Dec 16^th, 2019 at 12:05pm	Print Post
	A nice two stage trigger can give the shooter a lot better control over the last bit of "break" before the sear is released or the "hammer drops". I got used to this with shooting my Colt Pythons since I was a teenager where the double action trigger pull would raise the hammer to mid point with the first stage and then a distinctive, but slight, change was encountered that allowed a slight pause, milliseconds, to get the final sight picture aligned and then pull through the second stage with about a 1/2 pound pull to release and fire. Two stage triggers are really nice for this control. I have a single stage on a long distance rifle and it breaks with no travel at about 8 ounces of pull. You really have to be ready for that but there is no movement created by working the trigger for the sear release. The Krag trigger seems to work quite well for the heavy rifle if you smooth out the rough spots. It makes a difference and is quite surprising how well these triggers can work for us after 120 years!


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FredC KCA Official Member Offline Krag Enthusiast! Posts: 759 Location: Dewees, Texas Joined: May 31^st, 2013 Gender:	Re: After market triggers for Krags and trigger mods Reply #16 - Dec 16^th, 2019 at 3:20pm	Print Post
	For BR and Whig, I too like the 2 stage pull. On my 222 Savage it has that new fangled trigger with the safety blade in the center of the trigger. Take the slack out and the next little bit of motion sets it off. Reminiscent of the military 2 stage. If any want to take a good photo of the trigger on the action and compare to my shop made trigger, it would be nice to compare them to see if the desirable features could be easily had by modifying a standard trigger. Maybe Parashooter's trick plus modifying the "A" cam. May or may not be legal for your sanctioned shoots.


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butlersrangers KCA Forum Member Offline Krag Enthusiast! Posts: 6330 Location: Michigan Bi-Peninsular&Proud Joined: Oct 7^th, 2009	Re: After market triggers for Krags and trigger mods Reply #17 - Dec 16^th, 2019 at 6:05pm	Print Post
	I'm not sure exactly what you want to compare in pictures, Fred?
	« Last Edit: Dec 16^th, 2019 at 9:53pm by butlersrangers »

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FredC KCA Official Member Offline Krag Enthusiast! Posts: 759 Location: Dewees, Texas Joined: May 31^st, 2013 Gender:	Re: After market triggers for Krags and trigger mods Reply #18 - Dec 16^th, 2019 at 7:53pm	Print Post
	Maybe another photo from the other side might help. I made that trigger free style with not drawings or notes. Just too many years ago to remember any of the details. It did have the same favorable pull characteristics in both my dad's Krag as well as my sporter. With your photo I do see the gap to the "A" cam as greater on mine. Not sure if it is just moved or it is a combination of the "A" and "B" cam changes.


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butlersrangers KCA Forum Member Offline Krag Enthusiast! Posts: 6330 Location: Michigan Bi-Peninsular&Proud Joined: Oct 7^th, 2009	Re: After market triggers for Krags and trigger mods Reply #19 - Dec 16^th, 2019 at 9:57pm	Print Post
	I changed my post to show a new photo of a model 1898 Krag trigger. (The model 1896 action hid detail from the right-side).


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FredC KCA Official Member Offline Krag Enthusiast! Posts: 759 Location: Dewees, Texas Joined: May 31^st, 2013 Gender:	Re: After market triggers for Krags and trigger mods Reply #20 - Dec 16^th, 2019 at 10:56pm	Print Post
	That helped, thanks. Kind of looks like both my cam surfaces are higher, Parashooter's trick will make the "B" cam higher. I do not know an easy way to make the "A" cam higher. Just a couple of hints to improve the trigger. Everyone will mention flat stoning and polishing the sear contact surfaces, but the cam surfaces, as well as the surfaces they contact on the receiver could be helped by honing flat and polishing also. Do not forget the lube on the cams and sides of the trigger (temperature appropriate and correct quantity). The wrong lube or too much can gum things up in cold climates. Did I mention I picked tomatoes out of my garden yesterday?


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Parashooter KCA Forum Member Offline Kragmudgeon Posts: 514 Location: Connecticut Joined: Feb 4^th, 2010	Re: After market triggers for Krags and trigger mods Reply #21 - Dec 17^th, 2019 at 12:43am	Print Post
	FredC wrote on Dec 16^th, 2019 at 10:56pm: . . . Parashooter's trick will make the "B" cam higher. I do not know an easy way to make the "A" cam higher. . . First off, let's get away from the "A" and "B" business before we confuse the recruits. Those letters are in my picture (shown at bottom here) only to provide a ready reference for someone looking at that individual image and text. In general usage, those two elements of the trigger are called "front hump" and "rear hump" (except Lee-Enfields, where it's kind of vertical and we have upper and lower humps ). Please note that the "trick" is needed only if one wishes to avoid altering an original trigger. If that's not a problem, we reduce the second stage by stoning the rear hump where it contacts the receiver at the end of the first stage take-up or reduce the first stage (and lengthen the 2d stage) by stoning some height off the front hump. (Stone both too much and go find a new trigger! ) Here's an image of the US M1903 trigger - different layout, same two-hump principle:


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FredC KCA Official Member Offline Krag Enthusiast! Posts: 759 Location: Dewees, Texas Joined: May 31^st, 2013 Gender:	Re: After market triggers for Krags and trigger mods Reply #22 - Dec 17^th, 2019 at 8:55pm	Print Post
	Parashooter, Points well taken about newcomers not knowing the related discussions. In a couple of years the 2 threads will be separated by many pages. Your adding your photo again will help with understanding my earlier posts. My memory is not what it used to be but I will try to always refer to the 2 humps as front or rear and the tension as first stage and final stage maybe. For my taste material should be added to the front as in your illustration and not removed. If I honed an original it would be only to remove dings and smooth slightly maybe leaving most of the bluing. Same thing on the contact points on the receiver, minimal material removal, just make it smooth. Not sure if that is allowed at Camp Perry or other sanctioned shoots. Please chime in if anyone knows. My reference to tomatoes was because I am in the deep south and I am not familiar with the tricks on keeping things lubed but not sticky when shooting in frigid circumstances. Anyone care to share things that are not trade secrets? One other thing to watch out for on sporters with custom stocks: the trigger guard may not be perfectly centered in relation to the receiver. If not the trigger will be binding on the side of the trigger guard. Besides the added friction from rubbing on the guard the trigger cams will be canted and not flat on the receiver casing excessive wear and more friction. This happened on my sporter, went though a lot of pain to correct it, in the end it was worth is as the trigger became free and the trigger guard screws lined up after the correction. Links to related threads: (You need to *Login* to view media files and links) (You need to *Login* to view media files and links)


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