Parashooter,
Take a look at reply#6 Butlersrangers reposted one of my photos with a box drawn around the trigger where it will contact the trigger guard. On the front of the trigger there is a small pad that limits the sear engagement and maybe a little extra thickness at that point. I intend to take that pad off as well as a little extra on that front surface. I too like the humps of the first stage and do not intend to touch them.

Gee whiz.  A week in Niger and all heck breaks loose.

Glad nothing but the wall and a little pride was damaged.

signed

The little Ohio guy in Africa.

.

You guys see the overtravel stop in this system?  It's in the wood, right below the trigger spring housing.  Whenever I look at a used stock, I look to see if that area's been messed with.  Course it has to be properly timed with the sear.

I believe all U.S. Krag trigger-guards are interchangeable between models.

Nothing simple about the Krag. The trigger-guard screws are angled.
As you say, there appear to be a couple angles in the trigger-plate section of the guard.

You really can't put too much stock in one shot.

Rifle performance should be judged on "repeatability" .... meaning Groups.

Remember to wear Hearing Protection!

butlersrangers wrote on Jan 16^th, 2020 at 12:35am:

Good to know I did not trade one bad trigger guard for another.

On repeatability I once delivered parts to Mr. Kleinguenther while they were sighting in a new 375 H&H magnum. 3 shot group with less than 1/8 in center to center at 100 meters, I was dumb founded that an elephant gun could shoot that tight a group. They said that 375s usually do that well. I guess the reasons a 375 is not used for regular target shooting is the recoil is somewhat punishing, it uses a lot of powder, and lack of good bullets with a high ballistic coefficient.

I have done a lot of repairs and enhancement to the trigger since the last post. Today I made a new pivot pin to increase the press fit. Also deepened the groove in the trigger for clearance and smoothed up the hole with a couple of turns of rolled up abrasive cloth in the sear spring hole. I thought it could not hurt to smooth out any dingle berries and scale from heat treat. Took a photo to show what I did and found another contributor. That ding on the 5 o-clock position of the sear on the right was big enough to catch the over sized spring. It was a perfect storm of mistakes. I had assembled and disassembled this thing so many times I forgot to lube the trigger assembly, flipped the spring that used to work and did not catch the ding that had probably always been there. Some of the other things you all suggested are potential problems others could run into. These threads we think are only viewed by us regulars may be viewed by thousands of others. Before this is over I will go through and make a list of things to check based on suggestions made here.  I have made a bunch photos of the work so far and will post them soon.

I need to get some real gun grease as I can not find the old tube, the only reason I did not assemble the trigger today. good thing as it gave me time to make the photos. I plan on stopping at a gun shop Monday as I will be going to a dentist in San Antonio. No good places to find gun grease in Dewees.