Got a new project yesterday.  I bought motorcop's partially completed Krag.  It gives me a head start on building a Krag for vintage matches.  It already has a new barrel installed and it has an original stock.  I loosely assembled everything last night and it sure is a pretty rifle with nice metal and wood.  Plus, I met a really nice and knowledgeable guy.  Thanks motorcop!

Awesome!  You can certainly join us on the firing line next year at Perry!

How to remove Cut-Off Lever from Receiver.

(p.s. - Don't take the Cut-Off Lever sub-assembly apart! The small Detent-Pin and its Spring are peened into place and intended to be 'captured parts')!

Great pics and diagram!  The trigger/sear on the rifle is disassembled.  I was confused by the "hole" in the end of the sear.  The cutoff was also removed for the installation of a receiver sight.

Question: I was planning on installing a 1902 rear sight due to the ease of adjustment (I think) but the rifle came with a 1901 sight and matching handguard.  If I use the 1902 I'll have to get a handguard.  For actual range/match use, are either of these sights better than the other?

I like a 1902 or 1898 ramp, with a V-notch cut into the eyepiece.  Such customizing is allowed.  I've used the 1901 sight too, but I think it's a lot easier to make windage adjustments on the line simply by turning a knob in the direction you want the bullet to go vs loosening a lever then looking down to see what direction you move, and guessing how much.  I'm wearing glasses that allow me to focus on the front sight, I can't see the hashmarks on the rear sight without a different set of glasses!   Oh, and don't forget to relock the lever before reshouldering the rifle.

My 2 Cents - I have not been shooting my Krags in competition like 'psteinmayer' and 'madsenshooter'. Their input and experience is quite valuable.

My Krag shooting has been at 50 and 100 yards (slow fire).

My preference has been the 'U' notch of the model 1902 sight. I like simplicity, kind of a 'woods hunting snap shooting mindset'.

The "Sgt. Peep" definitely needs an enlarged sighting hole. It is also relatively easy for me to 'bump' the peep out of its locked position, so I don't like to use it.

(FWIW - It is possible to get a spare model 1902 'peep' plate and screw from S&S Firearms for a reasonable price. It appears to me an original model 1898/1902 hand-guard is now getting harder to find and quite expensive).

If I was shooting a Krag at 200, 300, and 600 yards, in competition, I suspect, I might prefer the model 1901 sight. This is why I suggest trying 'what you have', before investing $200 in a different sight and hand-guard.

(If you want a good built in excuse, for 'throwing' an occasional Flyer or messing up in 'rapid fire', get a model 1898 'three-notch' sight)!

Peoples' eye-sight and rifle sight preferences certainly vary.

Yep... 4350 is the Go-To powder for 220 grains.  However, that is for Jacketed bullets.  The rules for cast are a little different.

'Max1066_33' - I'm a little skeptical. There is one spring that powers the follower-arm, while also, tensioning the magazine-gate (door).

If your magazine-gate snaps shut and stays shut, it is likely the curved-flat spring is in place. (I suppose it is possible that the front tip could be broken off this spring or the spring is not installed properly).

The spring resides in a channel, machined along the lower right-side of the receiver. The spring is hidden behind the hinge of the magazine-gate.

With the barreled/action out of the Stock:

You have to carefully remove the hinge-pin, while keeping the magazine-gate pressed in its 'closed' position. This is most easily done with the left side-plate removed from the receiver.

A large "C" Clamp or Vise can be used to hold the Receiver and Magazine-Gate in place, while removing the hinge-pin. (I'm able to do this bare-handed).

If you resort to clamping, be sure to protect your Krag's metal with leather or thin pieces of wood, from being scratched.

The hinge-pin can usually be wiggled and pulled out to the front by hand, penetrating oil helps.

The 2nd attached photo shows hinge-pin rotated so that 'cover' is open. Tip of spring is visible where it engages 'cam/pivot' on follower-arm. Schematic shows basic positioning of parts.