RomeoJim wrote on Mar 21^st, 2017 at 7:56pm:

Normally waste of money. Depends on relative die and chamber dimensions. Fat chamber, skinny die - upper body gets reduced before much neck is sized. Opposite situation, no problem with tapered-body cases like .30/40 or .303.

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Size "smoked" case to view extraneous contact.

If you have a .308 Win. or 7.62x54R sizer, it can be adjusted to serve very well as a neck die for .30/40. Buying one could be significantly less costly than a "real" neck sizer.

LEE 308 WINCHESTER RGB 2 DIE SET S/H #2 (NOT INCLUDED)
Our Price:
$18.09

REDDING 30-40 KRAG NECK SIZE DIE SERIES C
Our Price:
$58.99

Since a simple annealing regimen can nullify any effects of "over working" brass, with no expense beyond a little propane and a low-cost torch, there's little to be gained by purchasing more costly dies to avoid it.

HORNADY 308 WINCHESTER MATCH GRADE FL SIZER DIE (BUSHING)
Our Price:
$44.99

Hornady Match Grade Bushing .3XX Diameter
Our Price:
$17.99

Thanks to everyone for the good advice. I haven't heard of annealing the case necks of the brass coo prolong case life. How often s it recommended to anneal the cases? After every firing, prior to resizing?

Thanks,

Jim

Anneal cases before you get neck splits. How often depends on your brass, dies, chamber, pressure, and annealing skill. Personally, I load in "batches" and anneal the whole batch after I get the first split. Some do it sooner to avoid losing any. When you think it's time, anneal before sizing.

Don't expect oversize cases to shrink on firing. Sometimes do, but much depends on peak pressure. If you want to bump the shoulders back a tad before loading, a .308 Win. sizer can be adjusted for that job as well - since .308 shoulder angle is very similar to .30/40. Ideally, we bump shoulders just enough to allow free chambering but no more. (This is easy to check on a Krag. We learn to feel cartridge fit when slowly closing the stripped bolt on a sized case.)

A more elegant approach is to reduce the height of your shellholder, allowing cases to enter your .30/40 FL sizer farther. A few minutes rubbing the shellholder's upper surface on oiled 400-grit wet/dry paper can easily take off enough to make the difference. Lay paper on a hard, flat surface to keep things square.

When I first learned of annealing, I annealed every case I had.  Likewise, I annealed some used brass I purchased (mostly because even though I was told it was once fired, I didn't trust that).  After, I anneal when I feel they are getting a bit "thin in the skin."  I still get an occasional neck crack, but that may be because some of my brass has been reloaded dozens of times! 

I purchase 100 rounds of the Grafs and I'm keeping that in reserve for now... although I may load it up for the Roosevelt Match!

In the past, I believe 'parashooter' and others have suggested using the Lee 'Collet' Re-sizing Die for 7.5X55mm Swiss.

When properly adjusted, it de-caps the case and sizes enough of the .30-40's long neck to give a good grip on Jacketed Bullets. There is no need for any lube and it is quite gentle with case necks.