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 10 Bluing Krag Receiver (Read 670 times)
butlersrangers
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Re: Bluing Krag Receiver
Reply #15 - Dec 9th, 2018 at 6:57pm
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FWIW - That has $100 worth of small parts that you need for your present model 1896 receiver, so you are only paying $50 for this model 1898 receiver. Also, it is probably a lot easier to acquire a 'cut-down' model 1898 stock.

How's that for RATIONALIZING!
  
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Jason60chev
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Re: Bluing Krag Receiver
Reply #16 - Dec 9th, 2018 at 7:59pm
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Thanks. Don't know if I mentioned it......I purchased what appeared to be an unaltered, original 1898 rifle at the Tulsa gun show this past November. I didn't get to spend much time with it as I had to fly back to Florida, then the following Tuesday, I had to return to Afghanistan. Bt it is a VERY nice rifle, Stock and metal finish appears to be original and the color case hardening can still be seen on the receiver. I got it for $750. The gentlemen said that they were selling their  father's collection. There was another Krag long rifle. It was almost an impulse purchase but a Krag was on my list. I bought a very nice bayonet from them, too.

I just might get both receivers. WHat the Hell! Why not?

Oh....Sarco is showing 1898 receivers for $29.95!

Whig wrote on Dec 9th, 2018 at 6:39pm:
Jason,

That's a much nicer receiver and the price isn't too bad really. You are not going to have a highly collectible rifle when you're done wene you put together parts but you'll have a great Krag that can look nice and hopefully shoot great! That should be the goal.

Then, you can look for an unaltered collectible when you are done investing in this one.

  
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Mark_Daiute
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Re: Bluing Krag Receiver
Reply #17 - Dec 11th, 2018 at 12:32am
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don't blue anything, even a parts rifle. My unsolicited .02. Truthfully re-blued antiques look pretty horrible and the receivers were not blued, maybe someone else will chime in but they were not blued per-se.I forget the process used and I'm too tired to look it up. Then again maybe I am completely wrong.
  
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FredC
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Re: Bluing Krag Receiver
Reply #18 - Dec 11th, 2018 at 2:33am
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I am with Mark and Butlersrangers on the looks of a blued Krag. Another thing is the case is not very thick on a Krag sanding out the surface will only make it thinner. The metal under that case has been described as "butter soft", I have not drilled one myself, but have heard several accounts. Your modern case hardening steels have tremendous strength in the core or when "mock hardened' without the additional carbon in the skin. The material the Krags were made from probably softer than 1018 or other mild steels available today.

The men that heat treated at the arsenal had a lot of practice doing it. The Krag action has relatively heavy sections and knife thin sections any one trying to color case a Krag today would need to be real good not to ruin it.

I have made heat treated commercial screws that needed plating and the plater mentioned having to treat them right after coming out of the tank to prevent hydrogen embrittlement. We have also sent spring tempered parts out for bluing and never had the plater mention any need for post bluing treatment. I do not know all the bluing processes but I do not think any have an issue with embrittlement.
FYI the treatment to drive out the hydrogen is just soaking in an oven at about 300F for a while, not really a big deal if you do not forget to do it. It probably needs to be done quickly to prevent cracks from starting. Not an expert so I do not know how long you have to begin the treatment.
Just in case you think we all hate bluing, I did have my dad's 1917 Enfield blued.
  
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