I recently added a 1898 krag rifle to my collection of US Military rifles. I have SCOURED the forums before posting so as not to be redundant.

It's in nice shape, the bore is a clean as might be expected. No pitting. Stock is in fantastic shape. Seems functional. However, as I do with all firearms of this vintage I took it to a local gunsmith to have it looked at just to make sure it's shootable. This is when my headache began.

Gunsmith checked the rifle and agrees that its in great shape but says that it's about twelve thousandths (.012") excessive in headspace. He says it might be remedied by a new bolt but didn't mention that the bolt was deficient or had signs of peening on the lugs. EDIT: I don't know what gauges he used or how he measured it. He had the rifle for a couple weeks

He said "you're probably fine to shoot it with factory ammo in original spec, the chambers on old milsurps are often 'generous', but it would be best to fireform brass." His solution for the headspace was turning the barrel back 1 turn and reaming-which he didn't imply was a great idea. I know it headspaces off the rim not the shoulder, so I understand there's two ways to fireform.

I have read SO much conflicting info. Some people say "headspace is critical you'll shoot your eye out etc." Some people say "headspace is often a little long in old milsurps, it was designed that way, its FINE if the gun is fine".

I see three options. Help me run the sanity test.
Option 1: buy a new old stock bolt body and gauge. See if its a bolt problem.
Option 2: shoot a few rounds, compare length, check casings. Enjoy.
Option 3: Send the rifle to CMP and have em put a new barrel on it. Enjoy.

NOTE: I'm not super confident in this gunsmith, but he's the only game in town.

Ned has good advice. Headspacing is rarely a problem in these old Krags. Very generous tolerances and great chamber design.

Most gunsmiths don't know squat about Krags. Find someone who does or check it yourself.

We always advise saving your brass, reloading and keeping brass specific to each individual Krag. That way the cases will be fire formed to your Krag's chamber and you only need to neck resize which saves over-working the brass and it lasts longer. Many of us even anneal our cases to last much longer.

Good honest concern you have. Welcome to KCA!

Good luck. Thanks for your question. Post pictures!

'IgnoramusRex' - Welcome to the KCA Forum. You have a nice looking Krag.

As a rule, U.S. Krags do not show 'head-space' problems.

The .30-40 cartridge being rimmed, simplifies 'head-space'. In the U.S. Krag, it is simply the distance from the bolt-face to the barrel breech-face.

The Krag case rim thickness is usually about .064 inches. Most Krags will probably measure about .070 inches clearance between bolt-face and barrel breech-face. So, normally there is some 'free travel'.

I have a "Field" Head-Space Gauge that measures .073 inches.
None of my Krag bolts close on this gauge, using just light finger pressure on a 'stripped' Bolt.

I just 'neck-size' my Brass and it interchanges in nine different Krags.

FWIW - Even in the event of a case head separation, the .30-40 rim provides a gas seal that keeps gases and pressure in the barrel and prevents them from flowing into the action.

It is nice to have a Field Gauge to check rifles. But, I've fired many military pieces content with a good physical inspection and careful scrutiny of fired Brass.

"New Old Stock" original Krag bolts are available for $55 from 'Granpa's Gunparts' (in the KCA Classifieds). These beautiful bolts usually solve any worn bolt-lug problems.

Also, FredC has a couple of these NOS Bolts for-sale.

Hey, Schrodinger! Have you seen my cat?

Iggy,
Notice in Butlersrangers photo he removed the firing pin and extractor when doing the gauging, this is important. If it closes on the field gauge that is still not the end of the matter. Check for and aft movement of the bolt. Just a few thousands of an inch is still OK.

A shim .004 thick cut out of an aluminum can between the bolt and the gauge would probably still be OK. 1/4 round and stuck into the bolt recess with a spot of grease would be ideal.

When you get the gauge and do your checking do not force the bolt handle closed. Light pressure with you pinky finger should not be exceeded.

If things do not work out you could send me your bolt for measurement to see if a new one would improve things. I do have a gauge for measuring bolts.

Old thread on same subject:
(You need to Login to view media files and links)

Thanks all for the advice.

I removed the guts from the bolt body. The bolt has seen better days (pic attached) and I'm a tad concerned about this hairline of discoloration rear of the lug but can't run out and get dye penetrant to see if its an actual fissure because COVID. A new bolt body might be in order.

I've checked headspace on several '06 rifles before so I'll definitely follow the advice of pinky pressure only.

When I got my Mark 3 Enfield I was worried about headspace after reading all the horror stories about case separations then I read about guys using either small o-orings or hair tie rubber bands slid down the case against the rim and either form fired with a light charge or just fired with a live round. Doing this will take up any “slop” in headspace and push the case neck out so it now headspaces on the case neck-now you just necksize for that rifle. I’ve got 7-8 reloads on some of my .303 cases and haven’t had a case separation yet.

I didn’t do this with my Krag but I do fire form my cases and neck size only and haven’t had any case issues with several reloadings

Disclaimer: I didn’t invent the technique and your results may vary...use your own judgment....

'Griff557' - I use to have a S.M.L.E. Mk III rifle, that was a "Destroyer of Brass".

Ironically, it was a rifle that was rebuilt and re-barreled by B.S.A. and marked "FTR -1953" (Factory Thorough Repair).

All serial numbers matched and the new barrel had the B.S.A. trademark on its 'knoxform'. New wood and metal re-finish were part of the military rebuild program.

This rifle's Head-Space was correct and the bolt was fitted properly. However, brand new quality commercial brass, neck-sized and loaded with a 'Lee-Loader', showed incipient and complete head separations on the second firing of the brass!

A virtue of the .303" cartridge is that the rim prevented high pressure gases from blowing back into the action. The only evidence of my case 'failures' was the failed brass.

This rifle ruined all my .303 brass. The experience killed my interest in reloading and shooting .303 British.

My understanding is that the problem was not head-space, but, British military chambers. Dimensions were generous for reliability and military brass was heavier than commercial brass. The British Military did not reload the once fired Berdan brass.

My generous FTR chamber allowed the cartridge case body to be stretched to the side-walls and forward toward the chamber-neck.

This movement of brass, ballooning to the side and stretching to the front, likely caused my .303 brass to fail at the web area of the case wall.

(Suffice it to say, I have not had this experience with the U.S. Krag and the .30-40 cartridge).

My .303 British loads were: W-W cases, Winchester large rifle primer, 35 grains IMR-3031 (each charge weighed), and Speer 150 grain spitzer, (.311 diameter).

Ammo was loaded with .303 British 'Lee-Loader'.

Accuracy was good with a new BSA barrel.

Case life was shockingly short!

I hadn't had reloaded brass problems and head separations with a 1943 Long Branch #4 rifle or 1947 Fazackerly #5 rifle.

A 1953 - FTR rifle with a generous chamber for Korean War conditions???