kragluver:  Yes, the downside of the micrometer versions of both the Redfield (#70K) and the Pacific (K2) sights is that there is no quick release to remove the slide from its base.  It is very tedious to rotate the vertical adjustment knob until its threads are fully clear of the base or the slide is at least high enough to remove the rifle bolt.  By the way, the Redfield and Pacific sights are entirely different. The "Western  Gunsight Company" was started by Redfield in 1909.  In the late 1920's Redfield renamed his company due to objections from the Western Cartridge Company.  Western and Redfield sights are identical.  This is probably what you were thinking about;  not a company purchase but a name change.

There are two versions of the Pacific sight—a target model and a hunting model. Neither require any wood removal, only the removal of the cut-off. The target version is a little bulkier and is adjusted via knobs. The hunting version has the exact same "frame" but is adjusted to zero via screws. The hunting sight is thus just a stripped-down model.

I've a Pacific rear sight on a 24" barreled Krag with a 1905 type front sight as used on a 1903 Springfield. It's about the same height as most Krag front sights so it seems that inverting the peep would be an unusual modification. Maybe the guy that did that modification is the same fellow that keeps reinstalling original barrel mounted Krag rear sights backwards.

I like the Pacific K1 sight.  It is compact and light.  When you remove the 'coin-slotted' side lock screw, the slide can be pulled off the base (to clear the way for bolt removal).  The slide is easily returned to its sighted in position.  The elevation set-screw shaft is smooth and not threaded into the sight base.  The K2 target version is a hassle to remove from its base, since it threads into the base.  Both Pacific sights, (as manufactured), require notching the stock to have a full range of adjustment.  I would not use these sights on an unspoiled Krag stock.  The way the Pacific sights fill the magazine cut-off opening is a definite plus.

Same 1899 Krag put on "un-notched" stock.  Note the Pacific K1 base touches the wood and the slide can not be fully lowered.

Redfield 70-K with 'hunter knobs'.

173rdAbn:  By 'separation', I am assuming your forestock separated from the rest of the stock at the barrel band, due to a hidden cut.  I would try using a short length of 1/4 inch threaded rod (cut off from a steel or brass machine screw or bolt).  I would drill holes, that line up, into the ends of the separated forearm and main stock.  Once I was sure everything lines up and can slide back together, I would put epoxy glue on the threaded rod and mating wood surfaces, and slide everything back together.  I would take the precaution of putting a film of vaseline on the barrel where it might contact the glue joint.  I would use some masking or duct tape as a temporary "barrel band", while the epoxy is setting.  Once the epoxy has hardened, clean off the vaseline, tape, and excess epoxy.  Put everything back together and you should be good to go.

Wow!  Good to know Dick.  I guess masking tape would be "Ok" or some wraps of shoe-lace or waxed string.  I just would hate for someone to permanently glue their barrel band to the stock while the epoxy was setting-up.  Chuck

Well, I was doing some photography for my first book and had to substitute a similar but incorrect cleaning rod for the picture. To make matters worse, the rod was an inch too long, so it couldn't actually be in the groove. I taped it (out of camera view, and thoroughly) so it wouldn't move, and lined up the shot, very carefully. All went well - you cannot tell the rod is not in place - until I went to remove the tape.
Oops!!  I've smeared all manner of "stuff" on the raw "bands" and while the color is almost right, the gloss level isn't, yet. I'm still working on it.