'Kerz' - I determined holes by eye and 'by guess & by golly'.
I drilled the hole into the replacement forearm, first. I inserted a plastic headed thumb-tack, point out, into the hole.
With the barreled/action in the stock, I used the barrel as a guide.
I moved the forearm into approximate position and the point of the thumb-tack marked the spot for the 'stock hole'.
The holes were a slightly loose fit on the threaded rod to allow ample ACRAGLAS. The holes also 'vented' into the hidden 'lightening-cuts', of the stock and forearm, so 'compression' did not interfere with the glue flow.
I 'notched' the threaded-rod beforehand for the Forearm 'barrel-band pin'. I put a 'witness mark' (black felt tip mark) on the threaded-rod and its forearm hole.
With everything apart, barrel (joint area) coated with Vaseline, and ACRAGLAS mixed, I ladled ACRAGLAS (with popsicle-stick) into forearm hole, on front half of threaded-rod, and splice surface. The threaded rod was inserted into forearm, turned to 'index mark', and a small finish nail inserted as a temporary 'barrel-band pin'.
ACRAGLAS was then ladled into the stock hole, on the cut surface, and a bit in the barrel channel-splice area. The barreled-action and stock were put together and secured with just the front guard-screw (tight) and a wrap of masking tape at finger-grooves.
The threaded-dowel (coated with ACRAGLAS) and the forearm were now slipped into position. The forearm was secured with the front barrel-band (without screw) and a wrap of masking tape ahead of the 'glue joint. I tapped the forearm tip with a plastic mallet, made sure the bayonet fit and positioned properly (in relation to the front-sight base), and that the top edges of the stock and forearm aligned.
I also made sure I could see a bit of 'daylight' between the top of the barrel and the loops on the front barrel-band.
During the initial hardening of the ACRAGLAS the rifle was rotated so that the bedding compound did not settle unevenly.
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