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 10 Annealing (Read 3387 times)
FredC
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Re: Annealing
Reply #15 - Nov 12th, 2018 at 3:21pm
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I did hear from Gary at Ballistic Recreations and his 450C (842F) minimum temp is based on tests he personally conducted. His training as an engineer and ability to test for residual hardness led to this minimum temperature to be used with his system.
I think the heat transfer with the salt may be slightly slower than lead, so this contributes to the need for a higher temperature. I will be ordering a kit soon.
As a side note heating with a torch and quenching with water may actually shorten the time at the annealing temperature. Letting the brass cool in still air would allow more time at temperature. The quenching adds nothing to the actual  annealing other than safety so you do not bump into hot brass. It may keep the heat from traveling down the brass also.
We used to anneal 300 series stainless cable fittings at 2000+F and quenching in cold water actually did something there, it prevented grain growth so the fittings could be successfully swaged onto the cables without splitting. It was easy to see if the process worked, if splitting occurred you did not do it right. When done correctly the cable would break before the fittings pulled off in destructive testing.

Quenching with Ballistic Recreations system will stop the heat from traveling, as well as rinse the salt of the cases. I will ask if a tittle detergent in the quench will help with rinsing the salt off.

The correct name does not have "solutions" in the tittle, that is a bullet proof glass company
  
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carbon outlaw
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Re: Annealing
Reply #16 - Nov 17th, 2018 at 11:15pm
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OK I was looking on google and they said any where between 5 to 15 times brass can be reloaded ... It depends on how hot your loads are how tight your chamber is if you work it a lot by full length resizing
.. So I said I reload mine hundreds of times ... Has any one ever herd of reloading the same brass that many times ... I have brass I perchased 50 years ago that I'm still reusing ... May be it just seems like 100 of times ....I shot m1_carbine for years I would load it so hot the brass would come out blue kind of self anieling ... That brass I would be lucky to get 2 reloads before it would crack ... My 30-40 brass comes out very cool ... May be that would account for the extended life ....
  
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craigster
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Re: Annealing
Reply #17 - Nov 18th, 2018 at 3:18am
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100 times ? No.
  
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psteinmayer
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Re: Annealing
Reply #18 - Nov 19th, 2018 at 3:32am
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I have brass (Remington, R-P headstamp) that's had easily north of 25 reloads!  Take care of your brass and it will take care of you.
  
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madsenshooter
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Re: Annealing
Reply #19 - Nov 19th, 2018 at 2:47pm
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I've seen the blue carbon outlaw mentioned, on the neck of some Krag cases that I'd loaded with Blue Dot.  The high nitro content gets the temp up enough to turn the neck a little blue.  The 30 carbine likes powders in that "hot" burn range.  Necks get a little blue to them when I load with 10B101 too.
  
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Playapat
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Re: Annealing
Reply #20 - Feb 28th, 2019 at 4:51am
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+1 on Fred’s comments about color blindness. I assume that just seeing a color change will do the trick.

My question is about when to anneal, after how many firings? I just got my Krag last week, and she loves the Remington Core Lokt ammo. But I’ll be reloading for it starting this weekend. I tend to load all my rifles down, and I’m especially conscious of this with the Krag, so I’m curious about how many loadingsbefore annealing isrecommended.

Thanks in advance for your help. I’ve already learned a lot just from reading various posts.
  
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Parashooter
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Re: Annealing
Reply #21 - Feb 28th, 2019 at 5:35am
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Playapat wrote on Feb 28th, 2019 at 4:51am:
. . .My question is about when to anneal, after how many firings? . . .

Depends on chamber/die dimensions and internal finish, case alloy/thickness, sizing method, lube, prior anneal, phase of moon, etc. There's no set answer that covers all the variables.

If we keep cases in batches loaded about the same number of times, it's easiest to just anneal a whole batch when the first neck crack appears. Lose a few cases, save a heap of unnecessary labor.
  
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Playapat
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Re: Annealing
Reply #22 - Feb 28th, 2019 at 5:44am
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Thank you for the prompt reply. I’ll keep a close eye on the cases.
  
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RichWIS
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Re: Annealing
Reply #23 - Mar 1st, 2019 at 4:22pm
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I anneal with a propane torch and an electric drill.  Get a set of the adapters that go in the drill and are sized to take sockets.  You'll need a 9/16 socket (deep well works better) to fit the Krag rim.  Fire up your torch and adjust the  blue inner flame to about 1- 1/12  inches and secure it so it doesn't fall over and roll away.  Put the socket in the adapter and chuck it into your drill.  Put the case in the socket and while spinning the drill at low speed hold it into the flame so the flame is parallel to the shoulder and point toward the neck.  I have found a slow 8 count works well for me, but it will vary a bit with flame adjustment, watch for a color change (found somewhat dim light is best).  After spinning drop the case into something that will not melt (old cookie tin works great).  There is no need to quench as annealing stops when the flame is removed.  I usually anneal after five or six reloadings and only neck size and my loads are mild.  Have cases with 14 or 15 loadings that are still going strong, although sooner or later the neck splits as nothing lasts forever. 



  
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