The Krag bolt will have a little 'Free Play' and make a little noise, when it is un-cocked or when just the 'bare bolt' is put in the receiver.

The bolt gets quiet when 'cocked' (due to spring pressue). It is quiet when there is a cartridge case in the chamber (less free play).

You are over thinking this. U.S. Krags are not problematic in the 'head-space' department.

Forgive my candor - Generally, most "gunsmiths" these days, are installers of scopes and Laser Bore-Sighters. You stand a good chance of being totally misinformed and leaving the gun store totally shaken and confused.

Go to the Range. Fire some standard 180 grain Winchester or Remington factory loads. Inspect each cartridge case after firing for any sign of excessive stretching in the case 'Head' area. Have Fun and save your Brass!

Next thing you know, you'll take up Reloading!

(p.s. - On the model 1898 Krag, the magazine cut-off lever is in the "up" position to feed cartridges from the magazine with the bolt.

The Krag was intended to be a 'Single Shot' arm, with the Magazine Contents held in reserve.

When the cut-off is "up", a shiny surface shows. This catches your Sergeant's attention and prompts him to come yell at you).

I always leave my Cut-Off "up". I like to get yelled at!

Sorry, ran out of characters.

Now, neither the rifles in the videos nor mine were Krags however, they were also operating at significantly higher pressures than usual Krag loading. I'm not saying just ignore headspace or that bad things can't happen. I am saying there is evidence it isn't as dire of a problem as it's sometimes made out to be.

Please take all of the above as opinion. Above all, put some thought into it, make your own decisions and be safe.

Cheers,
Hoot

Good one BR!  Hoot got away with the excessive headspace because US 8mm ammo is underloaded.  Note the primer sticking out, not enough pressure to force the head back to the bolt face.  I think US 8mm is loaded to an even lower pressure than 30-40.  That had something to do with early 8mm rifles having a tighter bore.

im still wrapping my head around this head space thing thanks for all the help and insight .

now  you guys tell me the front sight blade i have is a low blade 1892 thru 1896 type  ? i have a 1901 sight on a 1898 model now , so do i need to change the blade or is this combination gona work OK . any of you guys know enough to help my situation as its also on a shortened barrel 22 inch length ... is this something only determined at the range ?

from what i see the 1898 model used the tall sight blade ? this having the shorter barrel has to make some difference ? like what does a real carbide 22 inch  barrel use ?

its a rather mix-mash of parts n years so it confusing to the the newby here . im just wanting it as good as i can get it before hitting the range .....im still waiting on a little pin in the mail .

OK im looking at more like .5625 . put a square on the barrel end and the sight tip and measured between barrel n square ..... so this something i may need to address thats pretty easily remedied once i start shooting and become ONE with it this may cost me a bundle in shells LOL as im no marksman anyways  LOL

oh its also .375 the front base of the sight to the end of the barrel . 

to have this sight blade and it looks to have been there this way a long makes me wonder if someone has already gone thru the trouble of sighting in and or shortening / filing it ?  may save me some grief ? only one way to really find out i guess .

again thanks for the guidance !!! steve

Very good advice to everyone trying to sight in (sometimes I forget this and try to adjust based on a single shot, LOL). 

Fear not...  If you are close, then only minor tweaking is in order. 

To be honest, I rarely change by sight calibration.  I'm sighted in for Match shooting at 200 yards, and if I'm a hair right/left, or high/low, I usually use "Kentucky Windage" rather than adjust my sight.  Seems to work for me anyway.

Here is a picture of the Krag Oiler and three rod sections stored. The Oiler goes in first, then the rod sections. A folded cleaning patch in the Butt Trap is a good idea to immobilize the accessories.

Soldiers had to pair up & share a section to make a rod long enough to clean the bore properly.

Some Krag stocks may not have had the wood removed to accept the Oil Container.

The bottom Stock hole is just to lighten the weapon.

These 'Butt Trap' accessories were 'make-do' in the Field tools. The solid brass barrack rods were a better cleaning implement.