A different bolt body, maybe.  That's about all that could be out of spec, that and/or wear on the breechface, which should be readily visible.  That's what you're really checking, the space between boltface and breechface.  The distance to shoulder has nothing to do with headspace in the Krag.

Parashoooter's info is correct, the no/go is for a newly installed barrel. With an installation where the no/go almost fit the bolt and receiver lugs will wear with time so that it the no/go gauge will go later. Field gauge I think is meant to be used as a limit for guns with wear.

Checking with a field gauge would be more appropriate.

Madsenshooter's comment about a new bolt is one possible cure as it will remove 1/2 of the wear of the bolt/receiver interface. New bolts are readily available.
You might keep an eye on this thread as more useful info will be coming:    (You need to Login to view media files and links)

Parashooter wrote on Sep 16^th, 2019 at 2:44pm:


I removed the extractor and checked with the go, no-go gauges but you say it would be more appropriate to check with a field gauge?  There maybe hope for me yet.

Chuck - Which gauge to use depends on the rifle's condition. If it has a new, unfired barrel, the .067" No-Go is the one to use. If the arm has been fired a bit, the .070" Field gauge is indicated. In addition, it should be OK with good ammo if it passes on an .073" or .074" gauge.

I suspect you don't yet have a solid background in headspace and its effects. You might benefit from the article at (You need to Login to view media files and links) - written about .303 British but largely applicable to US Krags.

My favorite quote from Gen. Hatcher:

"If there is excess headspace, the case will be stretched; if the headspace is too excessive, the case will be separated . . . where the thick brass in the base of the case begins to thin out as it joins the walls. When the gun is opened, the base of the cartridge will come out with the extractor, but the forward part of the case will remain wedged in the chamber and the gun cannot be used again until this is removed. . . With good strong actions and moderate pressure loads, and especially if shooting glasses are worn, this trouble is not particularly dangerous, but is annoying and inconvenient. Very little, if any, gas escapes to the rear, because the back end of the cartridge, which remains in the chamber, acts as a seal. In fact, it is just such short brass cups that the Germans have for years used as the breech seals in their heavy artillery . . .

"Our riflemen are used to measuring the headspace of their rifles by thousandths, and are prone to become very much alarmed if the headspace gauges two or three thousandths of an inch more than the normal maximum. This is a good safe attitude to take, but it is something like measuring cordwood with a micrometer. . ."

Parashooter wrote on Sep 16^th, 2019 at 9:25pm:


Parashooter,

I had heard that on Milsurp Collectors Forum about the .303.  I just wanted to be overly cautious.

Hi Chuckw,

I believe the bolt should close on the "GO" gauge and not close on the "NO GO" gauge.

Hmmm...your post seems to indicate that the bolt will not close with either GO or NO GO gauge?

I'm finding it hard to believe a NOS Krag Bolt will not close on a "Go" gauge.

Especially, with a Krag that the OP reported to have 'excessive' head-space with the bolt that came with it.

The "Go" gauge is typically used to check a re-barreling job, to make sure the Bolt will close on Factory Ammo.

I'm wondering if someone has misspoke or mistyped?