As an explanation of the photos, I needed to make  a neat hole through the stock at just the right location was unsure how to do it with hand tools.
The set up started by toe clamping an aluminum block in the back, it was indicated in parallel to the table. Its purpose was to be something to line up the V-blocks that would support the Krag action. This was the key to lining up the action.
With the receiver on the V-blocks I indicated across the top to level it out then toe clamped it. The toe clamp did a little damage in the area near the ejector, if there ever would be a next time I would place an 1/8 metal shim under the clamp.
The top photo shows an aluminum stub in place of the barrel. I used this to find the center of where the new barrel would be, then using the edge finder shown found the end of the receiver which would be the starting point of the slot to be milled in the stock.
After setting zero in both X and Y, I screwed the blank out and hand tightened the original barrel, installed the stock and trigger guard and toe clamped the stock on top with moderate tightness.
The fore end of the stock was shimmed with card board in the regular mill vice to keep it from chattering while milling the stock.
This procedure could be used to put one neat hole in the stock for a conventional pillar, which really is needed n a US Krag if barrel bands are not used. Pictures of other Krags on this web site show a forward hold down screw so a pillar would not be needed on them.
The attached photos show the finished slot and the sight base that the pillar would support along with the old barrel.
If this seems like a strange thing to do to a Krag, the purpose of this rifle is for shooting wild hogs in low light. Again the info might be helpful to a Kragsmith or anyone else wanting to do a nice sporter.

After noticing the original screws were ruined I made new ones. For anyone new to Krags they were built before the USA unified screw system was developed. The 2 original are on the left, the middle 2 are the replacements and the 2 on the right are for the front pillar.
The guard screws are 1/4 in diameter, but with an unusual pitch and thread form. The pitch is 25 compared with 20 and 28 for unc and unf of the unified system. The best I could tell is the Krag screws do have 60 degrees on the flanks as modern unified screws have. I did check the angles on an optical comparator but they were not exact and also worn.
The thread form has unusually large radius at the root and crest of the threads. One could use a standard threading tool and the extra material removed from the roots will have no effect on the fit of a new screw. Making the root radius larger than the standard unified threads will make the screw slightly stronger and make it look to be more original. The peak of a Krag replacement screw has to be filed or machined to near or nearly the correct radius otherwise the screw will bind on the radius or have to be machined so deep the screw will be weakened (see photo).
I made the screws in the photo out of W1 tool steel as it is relatively easy to machine and heat treat. If I did not have an oven or the ability to heat treat I would use Fatigue Proof as it is fairly easy to machine and already heat treated.
I made the 2 guard screws larger than the original on the pitch diameter (checked with wires) and they are still loose because of the tapered threads in the receiver.
At the armory they probably made their own taps and made them oversize to start with as they wore down mostly on the ends and would start to cut a severe taper, so the threads in any one receiver could be slightly oversize and the same size from top to bottom or tapered depending on wear of the tap. Our modern high speed steels (wear resistant) were a gleam in some ones eyes back then.

FredC - Your commentary on Springfield Armory threads and Dies is interesting. I assume our U.S. Armories and tooling were influenced by the 'French Arms' we first copied and manufactured.

butlersrangers wrote on Dec 24^th, 2015 at 5:00pm:

I just pulled the original screws out of my dad's 1917 Enfield and they have 30 threads per inch with the same rounded crests and roots. The flanks have the now standard 60 included angles and not the earlier 55 Witworth angles.
So you may very well be correct that the 25 TPI is French. I got mixed up because the Brownells catalog makes reference to one other rifle having the same pitch as the Krag, must have been the 03 Springfield.
It is funny that the French and English gun makers would have used such odd ball thread pitches. Most small and medium size lathes have an 8 pitch lead screw. If the thread TPI that you are cutting will divide into 8 evenly you do not need to look at a thread leadscrew dial as you can start the feed at any place. The 24 AND 32 pitch screws of the American unified system would have faster to make before screw machines became readily available.

This is the last planned installment of this thread. The first photo shows the fixture still level after milling the front guard screw area. This got the cut out centered to the action and wide enough for the new guard as well as finishing the new pillar to the correct height.
After that but not pictured, I indicated the stock level near the front sight pillar and milled the pillar flat and cleaned up the epoxy that got in this area (A brass cover is planned for this recess).
The last photo shows indicating a gauge pin in to find the center line of that screw and finish dialing in the 5 degree angle. That cut was made till the guard was appropriately deep and the pillar cleaned up.
In other threads it has been mentioned that some after market stocks are very hard to get fitted. This last fixture could go a long way in making the trigger guard match the receiver. I would not recommend going the trigger guard pillar route unless you are cleaning up someone else's mess.
Making the pillars involves cutting the 4 1/2 degree angle on the front one, the 5 degree angle on the back one. I engraved a line on each after milling the angles then transfered a matching scribed line to opposite side to line them up. The transferred lines have to be lined up as the pillars are tightened down. The distance between the screw heads has to be set before the assembly can be epoxied into the stock. A lot of thought went into the process and I still got it wrong and had to mill the rear trigger guard hole a little off center to make things fit.
Hopefully this information will be helpful to members that have access to a lathe and mill. If you do not, maybe your favorite gunsmith can use it to become a better Krag smith.
I will be glad to answer any questions if I can remember the answers. (insert smiley here)
I do have 2 of the angles and may never need to use one again, if you are your favorite Kragsmith needs one let me know.

I have some photos of the near complete rifle. I thought it was complete but it turns out the chambering reamer was a tad small making extraction difficult. In case any want to get a 35 Krag reamer the number is #51279 Rev "B" from PTG. I bought the original 2 years ago and they made the corrected reamer at no charge 2 years later!
I made a couple of extra brass plates to cover the forward pillar and screws. My son made the fonts and I did not like the first one,  so I made another plus a third one without my last name on it in case my heirs ever want to sell it. The trigger guard was still not centered and the stock was a little thicker than original at that point so that threw off the location of the rear screw. The stock was used so it shows a few dings but it fits me pretty well and points easy. The finished rifle weighs right at 9 pounds.
If I do not mess anything up when re reaming the chamber, I will have to ask some of my neighbors if I can hunt pigs on their places as we have no pigs here right now. That is actually a good thing if you raise peanuts.

The sight is a Burris Fastfire III with a 3 mil dot.